[Hide Comment] I'd recomend climbing up from the back and then reaching around and clipping the second bolt and then lowering off and then starting the climb like a stick clip. Also this one is a pain to clean, I'd have a buddy TR/Follow clean it. Oct 31, 2009

[Hide Comment] There are 6 bolts on here now, doesn't change the difference at all. I think there's one new one at the top so it's not such a runout to anchors.

OR one at the bottom so you don't accidently slip to your death before doing the move. Not sure... but there is now 6 bolts/hangers.

Pretty cool climb, first time I had to use a toe hook on a 10b.

Also a biaaaaaaatch to clean.. got more scratches up swinging around than actually climbing. Jan 26, 2015

[Hide Comment] Pretty awesome climb!! it is really hard to clean...what i did was just untie, ran the rope through the rap rings, tied back in and then had my belayer lower me. When he was lowering i clipped a draw to my harness and the belay line which brought me down perfect to every clip. This is probably the best way to do it, if you aren't going to have someone follow/TR the route.
One of the best climbs for the grade in the area tho!
Nov 4, 2015

[Hide Comment] Pretty cool route and steep for the grade. Great clipping stances and didn't find the need to stick clip or any shenanigans.

Speaking of shenanigans.... lowering through the anchor IMO should be avoided. This area (like most) does not see regular anchor replacement so it's up to us as climbers to be better stewards.

If cleaning is a hassle and you don't have a partner to clean the draws consider a second lap, cleaning it up the second time.

Another method for tricky cleans is similar to what [Jack] did but without lowering through the chains. Feed the rope through the chains and have your belayer ANCHOR the end going through the draws You can single line rap using the free end. If it's wonky, steep or traveling to an extreme side (like the route here) you can still clip your harness into the lead side rope to guide you through the bolt-line. The benefit is you're not creating any wear on the anchor above. This is handy to have in your tool-shed of skills when cleaning tough routes, those with bad or low angle top outs, scabby rock..... it will save not only wear on the anchors but the life of your rope. Feb 14, 2016

[Hide Comment] I remember my first time out to this area and having done my research before hand this was the one climb on my to do list. Was not disappointed. I was so pumped by the last couple of moves I literally jumped up with both hands to the final jug on the lip. Will never forget how desperate it felt. Aug 21, 2020

[Hide Comment] The whole time during the approach I was wondering "will this climb be worth it?" It was. If this was in a more popular park with a decent approach, you wouldn't be able to keep hands off of it - the Five Gallon Buckets of socal. Mar 10, 2025