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Ursa Major

5.7, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 58 votes
FA: Todd Swain (onsight solo) March 1987
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Ap… > Bear Island
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the crack and face to the left of Polar Bears in Bondage.

Protection

Standard rack. 2 bolt anchor. Rap rings on nearby Shardik to the left.   

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"Ursa Major".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.<br>
[Hide Photo] "Ursa Major". Photo by Blitzo.

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Dean Olson
  5.7
[Hide Comment] fun, short lead. really only a few 5.7 moves then tops out easily Feb 19, 2013
Ryan Weald
Bend, OR
  5.7
[Hide Comment] If you want to protect the first 20 ft for extra safety you can use the crack from Polar Bears. Sep 20, 2017
Jaime BB
San Diego, CA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] As soon as you can reach right off the deck, you can place a medium cam or tricam in the horizontal, so there’s no need to use the polar bear crack. The finger crack sections take .3-.5, and then small-medium cams if you choose to place higher at the slab section. Bolted anchor on top.
It’s not clear from guidebooks which of the two leftmost finger cracks this route goes up but both are similar difficulty and both take solid gear. Miramontes guide shows the topo between either crack so choose your own adventure.
Polar bears in bondage is identified as the third crack/seam with a bulge to the right of both of these and just left of Kodiak. 6 days ago