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Slacker Ken

5.9, Sport,  Avg: 2.5 from 96 votes
FA: Vaino Kodas and Tony Stout (June 2007)
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Rad Wall
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Description

The first bolt is low and protects you off the deck. Climb up to a nice ledge, where the second bolt can be clipped from a great stance. Continue up through a small bulge and to the anchors. Nice exposure for the grade as it climbs just left of, or on the arete. The climb can be done along the arete, or slightly left of it for two different variations.

Location

Far left end of the Rad Wall on the arete. On the right side of the entryway to the corridor. This route is listed as #1 in the
.

Protection

5 Bolts to chain anchors. In September 2016 a chain draw was added to the first bolt to allow the belayer's end of the rope to stay clipped at all times preventing the all-too-common belayer-and-climber-swinging-out-together incident while cleaning.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

[[200083089]] reaching for the holds just below the anchors. September 2019.
[Hide Photo] Moss Halladay reaching for the holds just below the anchors. September 2019.
Reaching for a sidepull on Slacker Ken. August 2012.
[Hide Photo] Reaching for a sidepull on Slacker Ken. August 2012.
MacKenzie Passing the crux on a great onsight
[Hide Photo] MacKenzie Passing the crux on a great onsight
Allison leading up "Slacker Ken", a fun, airy 5.9 route on the Rad Wall at El Rito.
[Hide Photo] Allison leading up "Slacker Ken", a fun, airy 5.9 route on the Rad Wall at El Rito.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] A 3 star 5.9 by Vaino and Tony on the Rad Wall...I can't wait to try it. Thanks you guys. Jun 11, 2007
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I really enjoy the exposure and feel of this route. Very fun.

We belayed from the nice platform near the entrance to the "Route Canal" corridor. There's a belay bolt at ground level about 6 feet up the corridor that's helpful to clip a lighter belayer to for a heavier climber because there is good swing potential.

Also, when you are lowered by your belayer, please try to land on the trail and not in the eroding areas that have been blocked off. Jun 25, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Nice route. Good addition to the area. A little lichen keeps things interesting. Jul 1, 2007
[Hide Comment] If you do this route, you MUST go out on the arete to get the full experience! It's awesome! Jul 2, 2010
JaniMichaels
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The best part about this route is rappelling down afterwards. Coolest rappell I have done in while. Aug 10, 2015
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
[Hide Comment] A belay bolt was added in September 2015 at the base of this route. Please use it to avoid swinging out over the eroding area between the switchback and tearing that area up even more. The lowered climber should take the trail/switchback to return to the base of the climb instead of going straight back to the belay and tearing up the eroding area. The logs and rocks are in that area for reason. Keep our crags tidy and sustainable, please don't create additional erosion.

In September 2016 a chain draw was added to the first bolt to allow the belayer's end of the rope to stay clipped at all times preventing the all-too-common belayer-and-climber-swinging-out-together incident while cleaning. Sep 16, 2015
Anna Brown
New Mexico
  5.9
[Hide Comment] As of 8/24/2021, the belay bolt is no more... It was either cut, broke off or the hanger was removed and the bolt pushed into the hole. I wrapped my cordelette around the log that creates the first step into the Root Canal area as our anchor. Aug 24, 2021
Adam bloc
San Golderino, Calirado
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Watched some SICK belayer whippers this weekend. There's a perma on bolt 1, USE IT. Apr 17, 2022