A great 5.5 climb in a very scenic location. Scramble to the top of a detached block. Jam the steep, vertical crack to a stance. From here the angle lays back and you follow the beautiful left arching crack until it joins a vertical crack (the top of Recollections of Pacifica). Belay from the two bolt anchor. Rappel with one rope.
Location
Follow the main trail from the road. You'll come to a wall. Traverse left a short distance to the end of the wall and then straight up talus until you reach the South Wall (about 100 feet). Go right and them up some very cool old stone stairs. Continue on until you see the large detached block and two cracks. Wafer Step is the furthest right crack.
[NOTE: I have added the following to all "Central Slabs" climbs, but the submitter's description is excellent! "This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right." R Hall ME Admin]
[Hide Photo] Half-way up Wafer Step as viewed from Mme.'s Troubled Lunge belay. Circa early 2016
[Hide Photo] My first trad lead. Thanks Jeezus for vibram and micro nuts. The finger crack was kind of shallow and a bit spicy for me- I'm 5'5 with a -3 ape index.
[Hide Comment] Should be nominated for most wonderful 5.5 on the planet. If it were a thousand feet long, I'd drive ten hours in an unregistered '78 Chevette with bald tires and a milk crate for a driver's seat just to do it.
Oct 7, 2011
[Hide Comment] Definitely would agree with needing micro-nuts at the top. I'm 5'2" so I had a little difficulty getting to the good hold at the top. A little spicy for short people.
Jul 9, 2013
[Hide Comment] Really great climb. Just a note, I was somewhat worried that this was affected by the Perigrine falcon closure but as of yesterday it is not. Also, the closure is clearly marked with string and a sign.
[Hide Comment] SO FUN! Wow, I had a blast on this over the weekend. As for the previous comments about gear, I was able to get two number 4 BD nuts in. If I recall correctly those are the smallest regular BD nuts so I would say no micro-nuts needed if you spend some time to protect the crux.
Aug 24, 2015
[Hide Comment] Got on this last week for my only climb I was able to do on vacation. Good gear, and found that a #2 WC rock had a bomber spot in the thin crack after you’ve climbed the arching section. Also wondered how it would be climbing up that arch part but with feet on crack versus just hanging off it.
Aug 19, 2019
[Hide Comment] This is one of those routes you should get on no matter what grade you climb at. Great mix of crack and slab climbing. Loved it!
Oct 14, 2023
Avg: 3.2 from 208
votes
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
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Maine
Bridgton, ME
Jim Nov 27, 2011
Arvada, CO
Essex Junction, VT
Enjoy! Jul 13, 2014
Gardiner, NY
Portsmouth, NH
North Conway, NH
Best thing about this climb is you can then TR "Pacifica" FANTASTIC climb!!! Sep 8, 2015
NH
NH
Northeast
The Gunks