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Routes in Middle Small Wall

Devine Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Handjob T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Investigator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lactic Acid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marmalde T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quest, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Larry Day and Tom Seibert 1976
Page Views: 710 total, 6/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Jun 8, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Layback Crack follows the wide crack in the corner just left of Marmalade. The Ellington (2005) book gave Layback Crack a 5.9, but I felt it was much easier than its big brother to the right, although just as good.

Start as for Marmalade, on a block just off the trail, climb a dirty crack to a ledge and gain the OW. Once in the OW there are two options arm-bar/chicken wing (my choice) or lay it back; hence the name. No particular crux on this, just sustained fun.

There are rap slings tied around the tree on top.

Location

From the approach trail turn left, pass several routes until you reach a big right-facing corner.

Protection

Noting less than an old size #4 camalot. I used a #4 camalot (old size), #5 camalot (old size), and a # 6 camalot (new size). If you are not comfortable pushing cams up while climbing I would suggest more pieces in the #5 range.

Photos

Jordan K
Ohio
  5.8
Jordan K   Ohio
  5.8
I agree compared to other 5.8, 5.8+, and 5.9 in the area, this is no 5.9. Solid 5.8, but no harder. Compared to some of the classic "5.8+" climbs from the old days, this is a breeze. Sure, it's off width, but there are tons of features, it can be laybacked while placing gear, and just climbs well. Great climb.

Cut off ancient tat around rap tree and replaced with fresh piece of webbing (7/14) Jul 23, 2014