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Routes in Middle Small Wall

Devine Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Handjob T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Investigator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lactic Acid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marmalde T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quest, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tom Seibert and Ed Pearsall-1980
Page Views: 805 total, 6/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Jun 8, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

This route follows a striking wide splitter on the wall just to the right of a very prominent right facing corner.

Start on a block just off the trail, climb up a dirty crack for 10 feet until you are on a ledge below this beauty. I thought the crux was getting off this ledge and into the crack. From the ledge, place pro and fire out the overhang via ever-widening jams. Once your feet are under you, cruise to the top on arm bars and stacks. Build a gear anchor at the top.

Descent-Traverse over to the rap anchor on top of Layback Crack.

Location

From the approach trail head left, passing several routes until you reach a huge right-facing corner.

Protection

Nothing smaller than a #2 camalot. A #2 fits in the back (i.e., out of your way) of the crack at the overhang, after which you will only need larger stuff up to a #5 camalot.

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