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Routes in Middle Small Wall
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Devine Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Handjob T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Investigator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lactic Acid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Layback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marmalade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quest, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Tom Seibert and Ed Pearsall-1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,877 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Danny Inman on Jun 8, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
This route follows a striking wide splitter on the wall just to the right of a very prominent right facing corner.
Start on a block just off the trail, climb up a dirty crack for 10 feet until you are on a ledge below this beauty. I thought the crux was getting off this ledge and into the crack. From the ledge, place pro and fire out the overhang via ever-widening jams. Once your feet are under you, cruise to the top on arm bars and stacks. Build a gear anchor at the top.
Descent-Traverse over to the rap anchor on top of Layback Crack.
Start on a block just off the trail, climb up a dirty crack for 10 feet until you are on a ledge below this beauty. I thought the crux was getting off this ledge and into the crack. From the ledge, place pro and fire out the overhang via ever-widening jams. Once your feet are under you, cruise to the top on arm bars and stacks. Build a gear anchor at the top.
Descent-Traverse over to the rap anchor on top of Layback Crack.
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