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Routes in Witches Cauldron

Burned at the Stake S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Strongest Man Alive S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warm-up Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yeast of Burden S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Nathan
Page Views: 100 total, 1/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Jun 6, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

A very bouldery route. 5.10 moves to a high first bolt just before a rest. The second bolt is very hard to hang draw on. The meat of the route is a very short very powerful/bouldery 7 move sequence.

Location

This route is in the middle of the cliff face, and ascends the slightly overhanging nose.

Protection

Three bolts, J hook anchors, and a third rusty anchor bolt

Photos

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Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Jay- this gives you an idea about the glass... Still a decent destination. Sep 7, 2008
The first bolt was meant to be stickclipped or bring a pad. I would have put one lower but it would have been next to the crack and it really wasn't necessary. The glass has been cleaned up multiple times but the punks just keep making a mess. I have aways rapped in, hung draws and cleaned glass off the holds before getting on it. Nov 4, 2007
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
Stick would certainly make it more safe, and if you are in good enough shape to be doing .12d then its really not bad. And yes the glass is bad, but its still a worthwhile destination Jun 8, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Would a stick clip make the route more safe?

Man, it sounds like there's really a lot of glass. Jun 7, 2007
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
I gave it a PG because the first bolt is about 18 feet off the deck with a somewhat committing 5.10 move just before the clip. Also I am factoring in landing on glass. Jun 7, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Is this route given PG13 because of the bad bolt, runouts, or what? Jun 7, 2007