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Routes in Super Bowl Wall

Back in the Saddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everest 201 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fallout aka Disintegration S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hamster Forever S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Higher, Harder One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
JP's Variation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
More Obsessive Tendencies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sick at 17000 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simple Simon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smash the Poser S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Texas Chosspile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where's My Sherpa? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jarom Feriante, Justin Jeffs
Page Views: 1,495 total · 11/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

A fun climb up sharp and sometimes broken quartzite. The holds are mostly positive edges (including jugs) with a few sidepulls and pinches thrown in for fun. The footwork is fun in a few spots.

Most of the route is a bit less than vertical but it steepens just before the chains. There is a good rest just before the steeper part.

The crux is in the last fifteen or twenty feet before the chains: a small roof and a bit of overhang.

Location

The trail to Superbowl Bad Bananas deposits you essentially right at the base of Hamster Forever. There is a bush just to the left of the start. The first bolt of the route is low and can be reached from the ground.

Protection

10 bolts to chains (now 11 after someone retro-bolted it). The harder moves are all well-protected.

Photos

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10a
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.10a
Someone has added a new bolt between the third and (former) fourth bolt. Judging from the rock dust (and the plethora of fresh tick marks), it may have even been done today. It's not a bad place for a bolt, but it certainly wasn't there the last time I got on this. Jan 15, 2009
Rob Job
Provo, UT
  5.10a
Rob Job   Provo, UT
  5.10a
The jugs are there. You just gotta find them. In the occasional event you come across a move or two that make it a 10a and not a 9 just move past it quickly and you'll find a jug. Fun route. May 11, 2012
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
Fun route. It feels really long, especially when in context of the shorter routes in the area. Hence, it was named Hamster Forever I suppose; conjures an appropriate mental image of a hamster forever running around it's wheel. Very pumpy, and the holds can be pretty hidden. I passed up some great holds using mediocre ones without even realizing it - there are many options to choose from. Mar 12, 2013
Logan Bradford
American Fork, UT
 
Logan Bradford   American Fork, UT
 
I got about two thirds through this route and thought "why am I even on this thing?" It just keeps going ... and going ... and going -- on awful rock. I found the movement repetitive and unoriginal; add to that that the rock is so crumbly that you're never confident it's going to hold and you've got a bomb of a route. Mar 23, 2018

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