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Big Red

5.11d, Sport, 145 ft (44 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 27 votes
FA: Bob Parrot and Chris Misavage '94
New Hampshire > WM: Evans Notch > Wild River Crag

Description

Requires two rappels if you are climbing with only one line!

This Route can be done in one or two pitches and offers one huge pump if you sack up and go for it in one pitch.

The climb goes at a hard 5.10d if you aid the lower crux, so the crux isn't the pump it is the technical start and the demanding footwork it requires.

Climb the steep face using flakes, liebacks, crimps and big moves to gain not great holds for small rests along the way.

The crux is at the third of 12 bolts.

Location

The big red line on the left/center portion of cliff, 30' right of Wild Thing(5.13).

Protection

12 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Big Red. Photo credit Greg Shyloski
[Hide Photo] Big Red. Photo credit Greg Shyloski
Big Red
[Hide Photo] Big Red
Looking Up Big Red
[Hide Photo] Looking Up Big Red

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
[Hide Comment] The best single pitch of climbing at the grade I know of. Nov 15, 2008
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
[Hide Comment] .....except that it's a bolted crack. This pitch IS fantastic, but the bolts are a shame. Nov 20, 2008
john strand
southern colo
 
[Hide Comment] Ya I'm not sure what Bob was thinking. He explained it to me but.....
ANYWAY a GREAT climb. On cathedral it would have 1-2 bolts and be 5.12 Mar 28, 2009
[Hide Comment] the bolts protect the independant arete to the right(get a life)big red was led w/o bolts in the upper half on the fa. the rope used to get sucked into the cams while climbing the upper corner...clipping the bolts on get a life eliminates the problem..get it? Jul 20, 2010
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
[Hide Comment] Got it.....kind of. Jul 24, 2010
[Hide Comment] So do you need cams for this climb or no? The route description says 12 bolts but the comment above mentions cams for the second pitch. Thanks. -John Jun 15, 2020