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Routes in Shamrock Scare Buttress

Greatest Route At Ibex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ripcurl T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seek & Destroy T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas with help equipping from Zach Garhart
Page Views: 366 total, 3/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Jun 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

P1. The first bolt is about 15 feet off the ledge, from there a few bolts take you to a vertical crux placing a .75 camalot along the way. Another bolt and TCU bring you up to a big ledge 5.10+. This pitch was bolted on lead

P2. Climb up and right from the belay, slab-tacular moves bring you to an ever steepening crux/traverse to a 2 bolt belay and stance. Long slings helpful. 5.10-

P3.From the belay make some delicate moves on the arete to the big ledge, catch your breath, climb up on the left side of a scoop passing 3 bolts, at the lip go out left and find some gear, climb straight up passing more gear placements to a steep bulge with a typical bouldery Ibex crux, killer moves, killer rock this is why I love Ibex. 5.11

Location

This route lies closest to the cleft separating the Shadow Buttress from the Shamrock Scare Buttress on the big ledge. It is the left of the 2 routes off of the ledge.

Protection

Rack of draws with long slings. #1 metolius, #2 metoluis, #.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #2 camalot

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Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11d
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11d
The gear recommendation is spot on.
P1 takes a .75 at the crux, fun steep 10+.
P2 is all draws and wanders quite a bit, clip everything long (especially the last bolt) or rope drag will be an issue for the final touchy moves.
P3 is pretty damn unique! Right of the belay is touchy, then beware of the "holds" inside the small ripcurl, they might come loose. Killer steep moves and transition back onto the face where a couple pieces come in handy. I might call the crux 5.11c at the end of a season of LCC crushing but yesterday it felt V4 or 12a, whatever you want to call it. Long reaches through a bulge from small holds while off balance, reminiscent of about every other boulder problem out there. Proud pitch when (if) you put it all together!

The descent if a fuck show, bring webbing/cord or better yet chain and a bunch of quick links. The top anchor along with the one for Rip Curl to the right have old webbing that has been rapped through and is pretty creaky, we didn't feel confident dropping from there and traversed to a set of chains on top of Shadow Buttress (top of a crack pitch on the N face). From there a single 70m takes you down to another bolted anchor/death triangle (solid 10.5mm rope, no quicklink) and another short rap brings you to a ledge with bolted belay. We traversed and scrambled back to the packs. Apr 26, 2010