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Alpha Omega

5.10b, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 37 votes
FA: Stan Wallace and Spencer Turrentine early 1970s
Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North

Description

Start in the same crack system as S'more. At the first roof head up the left crack into a slot. Climb though this slot which leads to a second awkward slot, squeeze though the second slot into the final tight dihedral section, excellent finger jams take you to the ring anchors.

Location

In the prominent right facing corner just past the closure signs. The start of the route is slightly up hill off the main trail.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Scrappy is as scrappy does.
[Hide Photo] Scrappy is as scrappy does.
Getting into the first slot
[Hide Photo] Getting into the first slot

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob Dillon
Tamarisk Clearing
 
[Hide Comment] Flares! Put AO on your Valley Training Circuit, and take your crack climbing to a new dimension.

Top it out for full value-- the rings are nice, but they definitely shorten things a bit. Jun 4, 2007
James Arnold
Chattanooga
[Hide Comment] Great route, like rob dillon says. 12 feet of this bad boy got transported from flaring graniteville, USA Feb 17, 2011
Dood
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] This is a pretty cool little climb. Not the tallest line at sunset but the dihedral offers some challenges after you go left near the top. The top 14' or so is very blank, but you have a couple good jams and crimps to help you up. Nov 21, 2012
Papa J
Gunnison Colorado
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Classic route, wonderful jams lower down, and thin, hard at summit. Seemed hard for the time! Oct 22, 2015
Shea McCrary
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] WOW! Totally blown away by the variety of this climb. Great gear the whole way it seemed like and some exciting try hard to the chains. Really can sink some phenomenal jams on this one. Crux for me was placing my hand-sized piece in the crack at the back of the mid-way flare. Oct 20, 2021