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Sex Party

5.10a, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 69 votes
FA: Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen 84'
Washington > Central Region > Vantage (French… > Middle E Wall

Description


Although the crack looks splitter from below, the abundance of face holds and stems makes it difficult to climb in good jam fashion. Although a bit contrived, it is more interesting to only jam and to not stem over to Lingerie (this way it actually feels like 10.a).

Either way, fun climb.

Use chain anchor to the right, above Lingerie.

Location

just right of Savage Heart, left of Lingerie in a right facing corner.

Protection

rack to 3"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Using the face to rest
[Hide Photo] Using the face to rest
Geoff leading Sex Party (climber in upper right corner on The Elders).
[Hide Photo] Geoff leading Sex Party (climber in upper right corner on The Elders).
Sex party
[Hide Photo] Sex party

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dane
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Another climb (like a zillion of them at Vantage) that gets easier if you stem out of the crack. BTW we first rated this one 5.8 if stayed in the crack and actually jammed. FWIW the FA was done by Dave Fulton and not Jay Koopsen as many of the guide books have reported in error over the years. Dec 17, 2008
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This is one of the best cracks at the grade in Vantage. Mar 21, 2014
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] You'll need gear in a 0.75 - 3 range. You can take a #4 with you which you'll likely place near the top, but you can do without it if you feel confident climbing at the grade. Extra #1s are useful :) Mar 26, 2014
[Hide Comment] Agree with Dane, about 5.8/5.8+ for normal Washington trad grades, although fairly true to grade for Vantage.

Extra number ones, or similar size hexes would be nice. Hexes place well and seem less likely to shatter the outside layer of rock.

No need for the number 4. Protects well without it, or you can clip a bolt on the neighbouring route with a long sling from the stanve where you'd place it Sep 7, 2015
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Great crack pitch. But highly disagree with calling it a 5.8. No way. If you're a 5.8 trad leader and you try to onsight lead this (which is what pitch grades are based on, an onsight lead), it will not feel 5.8, but every bit the 5.10a rating it is given. Feb 16, 2016
Kyle McCrohan
Brier, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] It seemed like most of the climb was 0.75 and 0.5 cams, so if you've only got a few of them, place them wisely and look for the wider spots to get in other gear. Pretty consistently thin hands, much better crack than many of the Sunshine Wall classics like Air Guitar. May 4, 2018