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Savage Heart

5.10b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 78 votes
FA: Jim Yoder & Marlene Ford (1993)
Washington > Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Frenchman Coulee > Middle E Wall
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Description

Not your typical Coulee bolt job...

Awkward balancy moves and long reaches past three bolts, a small run-out and some so-so climbing above past three more bolts leads to the same finish as Left Out (5.9 trad) and an optional gear placement or a decent run-out below the anchor.

Shares bolted anchor with Left Out.

Location

1st bolted line right of Desert Dessert.

Protection

six bolts and a small stopper at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Savage Heart - climber is on Desert Dessert
[Hide Photo] Savage Heart - climber is on Desert Dessert
Fun little route to get my lead head back.
[Hide Photo] Fun little route to get my lead head back.
Kat Krohn topping out
[Hide Photo] Kat Krohn topping out
Will Kann cruising through
[Hide Photo] Will Kann cruising through
Lee on Savage Heart.
[Hide Photo] Lee on Savage Heart.
Brad makes it look easy!
[Hide Photo] Brad makes it look easy!
Shaun Morrison likes crack, a lot.
[Hide Photo] Shaun Morrison likes crack, a lot.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew Ault
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed yesterday (Sept 3rd.) Loose wedge at the top, right before the chains. You would think, 'this is the last easy hand hold', it's not. Great route though with a few good challenges along the way
Wife (Laura Ault) half-way up Route is Savage Heart on Middle East Wall
Sep 9, 2016
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] this has two lengthy run-outs on it, the first is easy climbing, maybe 15', after the last bolt to the anchor is also about 15', I did not know about gear for top out- was ok with it. It is loose up there, gentle. Sep 23, 2018
Tim Scott
Vancouver, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The run outs are forgettable (as you'd want them to be) and the rest is just a lot of fun. Like everyone else says, careful up top on the loose stuff, easy to avoid though. I chose to trend left at the runout after the last bolt and it was easy. The top has some extremely nice new steel carabiners with hearty wire gates for lowering off. May 28, 2024