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Les is More

5.10a, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.5 from 147 votes
FA: Les Ellison and Brian Smoot
Utah > Wasatch Range > American Fork C… > Division Wall
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A reasonably fun route with jugs, pockets, and stemming. Climb 8 or 9 feet to a ledge, clipping a bolt just below the lip of the ledge. Continue up on pockets and edges until after the sixth bolt; move left and stem in a dihedral to the top.

The hard part for me was after the fourth bolt. Two-finger pockets, an insecure sidepull and a difficult-to-commit-to, reachy move to the next bomber pocket.

Location

On the west face of Division Wall, this route is to the right of the obvious dihedral. It starts below a ledge about 8 or 9 feet up; the first bolt is just below the lip of the ledge.

Protection

7 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pocket Change!
[Hide Photo] Pocket Change!
just waiting for the crux!
[Hide Photo] just waiting for the crux!
Les is More
[Hide Photo] Les is More
great 5.10
[Hide Photo] great 5.10
Robert MacKinnon leading Les is More.
[Hide Photo] Robert MacKinnon leading Les is More.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Robert MacKinnon
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Great pockets on nice limestone! Jun 4, 2008
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] this is a really good 10a. one of the best at the grade ive encountered. Jul 24, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Don't forget to jam and stem at the top else its a bit harder! Sep 22, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Decided against stemming to keep it interesting, which made it quite a bit harder, especially since the rock is fairly polished on the face. A good division warmup, but nothing special. Jun 21, 2009
jzp
Pleasant Grove
 
[Hide Comment] be careful on those two deep pockets in the middle of the climb, i was using the one on the right as a deep under-cling with my torso above the hold, my foot slipped on the polished face and i almost broke my wrist Jun 12, 2012
BJB
Texas
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun. Lots of diversity with uncommonly deep pockets, stemming, and some unique hand jamming at the top. I thought it was pretty hard to be a 10a, maybe we were doing it wrong. Jul 17, 2012
[Hide Comment] I've lost track how many times I've done this one as a warm up... Apr 19, 2013
bheller
SL UT
 
[Hide Comment] Two options exist for the crux at the 4th bolt.
Skirt left for 10a, or head right for the harder version. Nov 20, 2014
[Hide Comment] and I bet you went left:-) Nov 20, 2014
bheller
SL UT
 
[Hide Comment] Was that some sort of political joke? ;) Nov 21, 2014
Matthew Colemere
Alpine, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Hitting the crux head on is really fun, and has perfect two finger pockets. Nov 29, 2016