PRINT: Rock Climb Les is More, American Fork Canyon

Les is More

5.10a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 278 votes
FA: Les Ellison and Brian Smoot
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Division Wall

Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.

Description

A reasonably fun route with jugs, pockets, and stemming. Climb 8 or 9 feet to a ledge, clipping a bolt just below the lip of the ledge. Continue up on pockets and edges until after the sixth bolt; move left and stem in a dihedral to the top.

The hard part for me was after the fourth bolt. Two-finger pockets, an insecure sidepull and a difficult-to-commit-to, reachy move to the next bomber pocket.

Location

On the west face of Division Wall, this route is to the right of the obvious dihedral. It starts below a ledge about 8 or 9 feet up; the first bolt is just below the lip of the ledge.

Protection

7 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of Les is more.

Les is More

Eli onsighting Les is More

Pocket Change!

just waiting for the crux!

great 5.10

Robert MacKinnon leading Les is More.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Robert MacKinnon
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10a

Great pockets on nice limestone! Jun 4, 2008

Tosh Peters
Park City, UT

5.10a

this is a really good 10a. one of the best at the grade ive encountered. Jul 24, 2008

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT

5.10a

Don't forget to jam and stem at the top else its a bit harder! Sep 22, 2008

Bad Sock Puppet

5.10a

Decided against stemming to keep it interesting, which made it quite a bit harder, especially since the rock is fairly polished on the face. A good division warmup, but nothing special. Jun 21, 2009

jzp
Pleasant Grove

be careful on those two deep pockets in the middle of the climb, i was using the one on the right as a deep under-cling with my torso above the hold, my foot slipped on the polished face and i almost broke my wrist Jun 12, 2012

BJB
Salt Lake City, UT

Really fun. Lots of diversity with uncommonly deep pockets, stemming, and some unique hand jamming at the top. I thought it was pretty hard to be a 10a, maybe we were doing it wrong. Jul 17, 2012

Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah

I've lost track how many times I've done this one as a warm up... Apr 19, 2013

Past User

Two options exist for the crux at the 4th bolt.
Skirt left for 10a, or head right for the harder version. Nov 20, 2014

apross

and I bet you went left:-) Nov 20, 2014

Past User

Was that some sort of political joke? ;) Nov 21, 2014

Matthew Colemere
Alpine, UT

Hitting the crux head on is really fun, and has perfect two finger pockets. Nov 29, 2016

Alex Allred
Utah

Little bulge is the crux with some finger pockets to pull on. a fun little climb pulling jugs into a dihedral crack Jul 21, 2022

John Nguyen
SLC, UT

5.10a

Gets pretty trad-y at the top! May 17, 2023