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Nice Jugs

5.9+, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3 from 112 votes
FA: Kelly Cordner, Urmas Franosch
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Flavin Haven
Warning Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! DetailsDrop down

Description

Varied climb featuring eveything from crack to its namesake jugs. Two cruxes, one at about the third bolt and the other just before you get to the anchor, Nice Jugs is not to be missed if you're in the area.

Location

Upper Gorge Flavin Haven

Protection

10 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route from the base
[Hide Photo] Route from the base
Tim belaying Nora
[Hide Photo] Tim belaying Nora

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

kozzybear406
Livingston, MT
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] A heady lead for the 5.9 climber. Crack skills would be handy on this one. Apr 1, 2014
Jeffy P
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] agreed. spicy warm-up. well-protected. Jan 25, 2015
old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA…
  5.9
[Hide Comment] really fun route, every bit as good as 'lava haul' - just a bit shorter... Jan 5, 2018
BAd
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Super fun! I gave it a 10a, although maybe a 10a-? Heh. Def. a little stouter for shorter climbers. A must do. First bolt is WAY high. I was able to stick clip, but I had to stem off the left corner and really reach--but I'm 6'4" with about an 8 ft. stick. Easier to get to the first bolt by climbing up the crack to the right. A cam might be nice for some leaders. Well protected after that, but my 5'3" wife said the clips were reachy. Jan 23, 2018
kelly cordner
Fish Lake Valley, NV
  5.9
[Hide Comment] the first bolt was a lot lower but the ground below eroded away .... maybe 5 feet! thinking about adding a lower bolt. Feel free to add a new first bolt. Aug 8, 2018
MisterE Wolfe
Nevada City, CA
 
[Hide Comment] That is a good idea Kelly - that first bolt is really high for a moderate! Aug 10, 2018
b garrett
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This route is a classic! Kinda spooky 5.9 move to get to the 1st bolt. Then, varied and pumpy. Hard for 5.9. In my opinion, it is similar in difficulty to many 10a climbs i have done. Crack climbing skills come in handy on this route. Mar 5, 2021
[Hide Comment] We clipped the first bolt with a 12’ stick; the bolt is about 19’ off the ground (not 30’). May 2, 2022
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] ASCA lower offs added. Draws were gone. Nov 18, 2022