Avg: 3 from 16 votes
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft|
|FA:||Paul and Andy Ross Aug 1978|
|Page Views:||806 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jun 1, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThe trick is protecting in a way that doesn't use your intended hand hold on the crux.... I used a finger-sized cam in the key, hand hold which left room for the hand....
Basically you start up a delicate corner till you need to move left to get in to the layback corner.... At this point you fish in a piece of gear and move left using a very uncomfortable handjam (though I've heard of other ways to do it, the jam feels secure, if painful)....
After that, it's a breeze up the corner with good gear, good jams, and cruiser layback moves (this section makes you wish the route was longer) to the top.... Belay from gear, or way back to a good tree....