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Routes in 1. The Cosmic Crag

Baby Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Cosmic Amazement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gravitational Mass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Here Come the Jugs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Siderial Motion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Paul and Andy Ross Aug 1978
Page Views: 806 total, 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 1, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

The trick is protecting in a way that doesn't use your intended hand hold on the crux.... I used a finger-sized cam in the key, hand hold which left room for the hand....

Basically you start up a delicate corner till you need to move left to get in to the layback corner.... At this point you fish in a piece of gear and move left using a very uncomfortable handjam (though I've heard of other ways to do it, the jam feels secure, if painful)....
After that, it's a breeze up the corner with good gear, good jams, and cruiser layback moves (this section makes you wish the route was longer) to the top.... Belay from gear, or way back to a good tree....

Location

The obvious, left-facing corner toward the right side of the cliff.... Follow the corner to the top....

Protection

A small rack of cams and nuts....

Photos

This is high-quality for sure. Loved it/ Mar 13, 2016
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
October 2015. Wasps in the upper corner. Oct 10, 2015
petr07 Lindahl  
  5.9
Fantastic short route. Definitely the way to finish up HTH->Inferno if you're comfortable on 5.9 liebacks. Aug 10, 2015
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Pin scars ??? Sep 15, 2014
Sprax Lines
Brookline, MA
 
Sprax Lines   Brookline, MA
 
Gear beta: I placed a red-yellow offset Alien in the first 'key' 3-finger hold *after* using it to pull into an OK stemming-lieback stance with my right hand above it. A red Alien or .4 Camalot might have been good enough, but the offset sank in deeper, as they often do in pin scars. I plugged the beginning of the overlap with two Camalots (.75 and 1), which still left plenty of room to lie-back off the undercling (no jamming until near the top). The remaining placements seemed obvious, even when placing them from a lieback -- no blind placements necessary. Sep 14, 2014
Theriault
Quebec, Quebec
  5.9
Theriault   Quebec, Quebec
  5.9
This is a sick route! to bad its so short!!! I still give it 4 stars! May 21, 2013
Annaconda
Seattle, WA
 
Annaconda   Seattle, WA
 
This is a great climb and an awesome way to finish up the Hotter Than Hell to Inferno link-up if you are solid on 5.9 - a few steps through the woods and there it is. It also seems to be easier if you are short (!). Aug 4, 2010