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Routes in Blue Wall

Good Witch Pitch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Got Caught Stealing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hardheaded ... S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard of Wiz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tom Caldwell
Page Views: 401 total, 3/month
Shared By: jtwalter on May 31, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Tom Caldwell smacked his head on the rock when he was doing the redpoint for the first ascent, thus the name 'Hardheaded...'. Also a reference to a Soundgarden song. Easier version of Stealin. Crux is near the 5th bolt.

Protection

7 bolts and the chains

Location

Slog up the scree slope and head west when you get to the cliff wall. About 8 feet to the left of Got Caught Stealing.

Photos

Andy Knight  
 
This was an exciting lead. Was creeped out at 2 spots. 1st was at the 4th bolt by a huge flake that was just resting on the ledge that spawned it. This guy, if pulled unintentionaly, would hit the rope and possibly the belayer. The photo is missing the true first bolt, so down and left of 3rd bolt you can see a long horizontal flake.
Then at the last bolt, just down and right, was another flake that was disguised fairly well as looking solid. When I lowered off the route I stopped and gave it a little pull directly outward and it came right off. Then I lowered back down to the ground to clean the first 3 draws off and clipped directly into the 4th so my belayer could move away. This big fella was so well balanced, when I pulled on it, it took no more effort than sliding a gallon of milk across your kitchen table. Yikes! So after all that I brushed all of the dirt off for the next hour. Cleaner than a germ freak now. Well, almost. But alot safer. Now, I'd give it 2 stars instead of the 1 I first thought it was. Jun 30, 2008