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Routes in Citadel Crag

Citadel Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracked Egg Boulder V0+ 4+
Da Gyps Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heads of the Valley T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heads of the Valley Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last King of Vedauwoo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stems and Weeds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,519 total · 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 31, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Great roof crack! Follow the thin crack which diagonals up and to the right towards the roof. Look out for face features on this section of the climb. Climb up to and through the perfect hands roof, and into the hand crack above. The crack then peters out before the next roof, forcing you to climb delicately. After pulling the final roof scramble up the last 15 feet and set an anchor.

Location

On the south face of Citadel Crag, look for the large fin/roof on the left end of the crag.

Protection

Small stoppers/RPs through #3 Camalot. Doubles in #0.5 to #2 Camalot could be helpful but not necessary. After the crack peters out above the first roof, small stoppers will give you some protection. There are several large blocks at the top which can be slung as a top anchor. Walk off to the East (climber's right).

Photos

Simon H
Oakland, CA
Simon H   Oakland, CA
Climbed this great route today, there are two shiny 3/8" bolts at the top for a rap anchor. Jun 19, 2012
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
Good roof climbing on this one. The gear is tricky below the second roof, but it's good if you use the correct pod for a purple or green Camalot. No need for small nuts. Aug 26, 2012
mika burns
laramie
  5.10b
mika burns   laramie
  5.10b
There are some nice rings at the top. The bolt on climber's right is a little loose but still good. This climb is really fun. Aug 20, 2013
bart cubrich 1
  5.10b
bart cubrich 1  
  5.10b
You can leave the RPs and small stoppers on the ground if you want. Can be protected with noting smaller than #0.4 pretty safely. Oct 8, 2014

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