PRINT: Rock Climb Mr. Fantasy, The New River Gorge Region

Mr. Fantasy

5.11c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 9 votes
FA: Rick Mix 1993
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Approach this classic pitch by climbing the obvious hand crack (Fantasy) to a bolted station up and left of the tat anchor directly above Fantasy. Climb up and right off the belay to gain a fixed wire of some sort then surf up and left clipping bolts. This route offers some really good exposure and cool moves out horizontals and crimps. There is a rusty old chain anchor at the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope will see you to the ground.

Location

Fantasy Roof Area at Endless Wall.

Protection

A traditional rack is needed for Fantasy Crack to approach the roof which is protected by just draws. 5 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chad enjoying the day with his friends on Mr. Fantasy. Photo By Jeff Gardner

Look out Brit! Robby Balls living up to his name on Mr. Fantasy.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Pnelson

This thing is such a fun extra pitch to do after you've set up Fantasy, I don't know why it doesn't get done more often. If you've just done Aesthetica there is not reason not to add this to an awesome day in the area. Feb 17, 2021