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Routes in Cap Rock - North Face

Anniversary Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ayatollah, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Eviction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Circus, Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
False Lieback T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
False Prophet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Lil Squirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nutcracker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Retirement T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Space Odyssey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thin Ice TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dick James and John Wolfe, December 1968
Page Views: 2,273 total, 18/month
Shared By: Blitzo on May 30, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

This fun, easy crack is on the northwest corner of the rock, below the cap.
Descend to the right, 3rd class.

Protection

To 2".
Jeff K
 
Jeff K  
 
To build an anchor you'll need some smaller finger-sized pieces and down for the cracks beneath the visor. There is a boulder on top on the smaller side that one could sling, but it's perched on a decline, so it's not the best option. Nov 15, 2016
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
quite enjoyable, esp the upper finger splitter with plenty of helpful footholds. without those footholds this would be harder. FYI, the anchor bolts atop The Ayatollah has no rap rings or chains. the bolted rap anchor with chains are further on that side past The Ayatollah Dec 19, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.4
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.4
I recommend hiking along the top of the rock to the rappel rings atop Ayatollah, then heading around leftwards, through a notch then back to the start of the climb. That way you don't have to a) scramble down the 3rd class descent and b) do the approach up all over again. The approach may take longer than the climb itself.

Nice crack climb, pity it's not a lot longer. Significantly easier than Nutcracker or False Lieback. Nov 15, 2014
Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.2
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.2
This was a very enjoyable and easy climb. I'd recommend it to any new trad leader. The start is a little bit tricky, but after that it's just plain fun. May 22, 2011
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.4
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.4
fun climb, and well worth it at the grade... too bad the upper wide finger crack isn't longer... Apr 6, 2011
tdoughtyjr
Springdale, UT
tdoughtyjr   Springdale, UT
< 80' rap descent also available from chains 75' east atop Ayatollah and the north facing bowl. Mar 21, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.2
An O.K. climb; my wife wanted to lead it. Easy route, and doesn't take long. Mar 8, 2011