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Routes in Piz Ciavazes

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schubert (Friendhip Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 820 ft, 12 pitches
FA: Luigi Micheluzzi, Ettore Castiglioni. 1935
Page Views: 1,801 total, 14/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 30, 2007
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 - Face climb up to a decent ledge below some slabs.

Pitch 2 - Climb the slabs up and then through a short corner. Next move right under an overhang to a ledge.

Pitch 3 - Follow the ramp up and right, then traverse left on the ledge. Continue up a short corner to a small stance.

Pitch 4 - Face climb up and right, then through short sections of chimney and crack to a ledge.

Pitch 5 - Move up and right on easy face and ledges towards a small horn.

Pitch 6 - Traverse right on face, around the corner.

Pitch 7 - Another traverse pitch to the right. This leads to the base of a corner.

Pitch 8 - Climb the corner and then up the black water-streaked face.

Pitch 9 - Continue up the black face, and then a crack.

Pitch 10 - Climb up and left away from the black streaks, through some slabs, and towards a stance on a small ledge.

Pitch 11 - Up and right on a ramp and face, back towards the black water streaks.

Pitch 12 - Face climb up and right to the large terrace.

Descent - Traverse left to between the Piz Ciavazes and Second Sella Tower. Scramble down to the road.

Location

The route ascends the south face of the Piz Ciavazes. The name of the route is written on the rock at the base.

Protection

There are sufficient pins on the route. Maybe brings some nuts and/or small cams.
scoTt Millbern
Langenfeld, Germany
 
scoTt Millbern   Langenfeld, Germany
 
I would add to the gear list a bunch (6-8) of slings from 7mm cord. We used these for threadthroughs and to girth hitch a few pins that would not take a biner.

Steller route! Feb 1, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
This is an absolutely wonderful route – not too hard, very good rock for the Dolomites, spectacular traverse in an unbelievably beautiful setting, extremely easy approach and descent. Of course these features make it quite popular as well so get an early start and be patient with others (welcome to European climbing). I think it is the best moderate route on the wall – a good introduction to climbing in the area. Almost everyone only does the first half of the route to the main ledge and walks off to the left.
Approach - Park in the dirt lot across the road from the wall and hike to the base - 10 minutes. Descent - at the half way point in the wall walk left across the entire mountain to the col between the Sella towers and Piz Ciavazes - descend into the grass then work your way back through the forest and down to your car.
Gear - 4-5 cams, 6-10 wires, threads, long slings. Jan 13, 2011
Ben Lepesant
  5.10-
Ben Lepesant  
  5.10-
excellent classic until you come to the big ledge, go down here (easy, head left) unless you like steep choss. Historical traverse in the middle, stay low enough... Mar 21, 2008