Type: Trad, 425 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Donato Zeni, Lino Trottner. 1960
Page Views: 67 total · 0/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 30, 2007
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Pitch 1 - Starts atop a large pinnacle. Climb s short section of face and then traverse a ways to the right on a ledge. (40m)

Pitch 2 - From the right end of the ledge, climb the chimney and then crack. (40m)

Pitch 3 - Another traverse pitch. This time to the left on the ledge. (25m)

Pitch 4 - Face climb up and right on loose, overhanging rock. (20m)

Pitch 5 - Climb the steep crack to the base of a corner. (20m)

Pitch 6 - Climb the corner to below a large overhang. (25m)

Pitch 7 - Move left around the overhang and face climb up to the large terrace. (45m)

Descent - Traverse left to the gully between Piz Ciavazes and the Second Sella Tower. Then scramble down to the road


The route is on the south face of the Piz Ciavazes. The first pitch starts on the top of a large pinnacle to the left of the face.


There are some pins in place. Bring a selection of nuts and small to medium size cams.


- No Photos -
marde   Germany
I linked pitch 4 and 5 to avoid the hanging belay inbetween.
No problem with 60m ropes, should be possible with 50m ropes as well.
The belay on top of pitch 3 has 2 new 10mm bolts. Aug 23, 2008