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Routes in Piz Ciavazes

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schubert (Friendship Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 425 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Donato Zeni, Lino Trottner. 1960
Page Views: 64 total · 0/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 30, 2007
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Pitch 1 - Starts atop a large pinnacle. Climb s short section of face and then traverse a ways to the right on a ledge. (40m)

Pitch 2 - From the right end of the ledge, climb the chimney and then crack. (40m)

Pitch 3 - Another traverse pitch. This time to the left on the ledge. (25m)

Pitch 4 - Face climb up and right on loose, overhanging rock. (20m)

Pitch 5 - Climb the steep crack to the base of a corner. (20m)

Pitch 6 - Climb the corner to below a large overhang. (25m)

Pitch 7 - Move left around the overhang and face climb up to the large terrace. (45m)

Descent - Traverse left to the gully between Piz Ciavazes and the Second Sella Tower. Then scramble down to the road


The route is on the south face of the Piz Ciavazes. The first pitch starts on the top of a large pinnacle to the left of the face.


There are some pins in place. Bring a selection of nuts and small to medium size cams.


- No Photos -
marde   Germany
I linked pitch 4 and 5 to avoid the hanging belay inbetween.
No problem with 60m ropes, should be possible with 50m ropes as well.
The belay on top of pitch 3 has 2 new 10mm bolts. Aug 23, 2008

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