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Routes in Negress Wall

Ambassadors of Funk S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Ice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear of a Black Planet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Imprisoned Behind Lies S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
James Brown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Malcolm X S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Procrastinator, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pulp Friction S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sidewinder S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet & Sour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Z Dong T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Marty Lewis, Fred Berman, Todd Vogel, 3/92
Page Views: 949 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bruce Willey on May 29, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

For lack of a better comparison, this climb is like a long slow jam by Funkadelic, with the funk coming low and deep and keeping the groove all the way to the top.

Location

Central Gorge Negress Wall

Protection

11 bolts.

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a/b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a/b
i thought the crux on this was easier than 'humbly, mumbly, jumbly' - awesome route, well worth doing in one long pitch (i don't think it would be as aesthetic in two pitches). be mindful of rope drag. the two little bulges are easier than they appear from the ground. bolts are a bit farther apart in the middle, but climbing is easier. 80m rope, so no problems getting back to the ground... 14 hours ago
Joshua Napier
Denver, CO
 
Joshua Napier   Denver, CO
 
Watch the rope drag on the way up. A 70 didnt quite get us all the way down. Nov 19, 2014
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
Linked with Sweet & Sour. A 70 got me to a ledge 8'off the ground. Dec 1, 2013
Awsome route you can lower to the ground with a 70m rope barley my belayer had to untie the knot and I droped the last 2 feet to the ground. Apr 6, 2013
Sick route that goes on forever. Two awesome mini-roof bulges toward the top with good holds. Second bolt is tricky to clip if you are short and a fall onto that ledge could be kinda bad. Can't lower from the top anchors to the ground on a 70m rope - gotta lower to the 1st "anchor" (about 1/3rd of the way up the climb) and rappel from there back to the ground. Climber is out of sight after a few bolts and the river can make it a little hard to hear. Feels slightly run out but way worth it.. highly recommended. Nov 18, 2010