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Routes in Fairfield East

A Piolet for Leon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Afterthought S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Apostrophe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Che S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devilution S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
French Blow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Houses of the Holy/Presence S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kissing Marilyn Monroe S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
L. L. and L. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Trotsky's Hair S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leslie's Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nimrod S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Physical Graffiti S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pistol Whipped S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Realm of the Venusian Sex Pygmies S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Restless Natives S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Revenge of the Pygmy Sex God S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Say Hello to Geronimo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Second Helping S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sorta Maybe Kinda Wild S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Treats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West of Venus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yer Own Private Idaho S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
rez ride S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob Branscomb c. 2000
Page Views: 628 total, 5/month
Shared By: richard magill on May 29, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Great line that burls up a slightly overhanging dihedral, then changes character completely with a testy face traverse.

Super fun - there are big flanges to pull on in the dihedral, and always decent stemming you can get going to keep any pump down. But the moves are continuous and fun. Then the face traverse is a real shift in tactics after all the stemming!

The book gave this route no stars, which I assume is because they never did this line? At any rate I think it is one of the best 10a sport climbs I've ever done. Do it if you are in the area!

Location

Roughly in the middle of Fairfield East is a long tall route called Blind (11+). Pretty obvious. Just down the hill is a little buttress with a new red-tagged line on an arete. In the shallow dihedral to the right of this is SMKW.

Protection

9 bolts to anchors

Photos

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Charlie Jonas
Jackson, Wyoming
 
Charlie Jonas   Jackson, Wyoming
 
Super fun route. Definitely worth doing if your at the wall.

Beta Spoiler: Stay low on the traverse all the way over to where it merges into the next line. Its tempting to try and cut off the corner of the traverse but you'll quickly find yourself on a blank face. May 19, 2014