Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile)
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
Routes in Murphy's Dome South Face
|Beer is Better T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Black Streak Through Overlap S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Bottom Feeder S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Hey, Dude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Irish Red S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|King and Eye, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Murphy's Law S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Murphy's Stout S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pork Meadows S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Slim Chance S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Stitch of Time T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Water Witch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Where's My Car? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||Kris and Kirk Hower, 01/90|
|Page Views:||116 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||TBD on May 28, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route follows a crack that crosses several routes. It starts the same as unknown 5.9, it then cross the unkown route to its right and The King & Eye, and then finishes on Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call.
Although it's a very obvious line, it's not in Hubbel's book, so it may be a first ascent. The crack was rather dirty in between the routes it crosses and I wanted to give it a name rather than add another "unknown" to this area.
Start as for Unknown 5.9 , clipping the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right, placing gear as you go. A #4 BD micro nut is helpful above the first bolt. The crack peters out just before the bolt on The King & Eye. Clip it and make a heady traverse over to Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call. From the top of the flake, run it out over easy ground to a two bolt anchor up and left of the obvious, large tree.
Rap about 120 feet to the ground or one short rap to the bolted anchor below and then another 80 feet to the ground.
Per Jay Eggleston": you can clip 3 bolts, not two.... The second route you cross is Pork Meadows.
Protection2 QDs and trad gear. I used a #4 BD micro nut, a yellow, red, and orange Alien, and a #4 Friend.
Per Jay Eggleston": I placed a #0.5 Camalot and a #1.5 Friend (for those that don't use Aliens). I also used nuts.