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Routes in Coup D'etat Wall

Battle of the Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cassi's Nightmare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coup D'etat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fat City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flat Bottom Girls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Sheba S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Ode to a Portly Man T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paternal Instinct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Ramp, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reptilian T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wasp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 283 total, 2/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on May 28, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Climb 15 feet up to the overhanging hand and fist crack. Follow it up and over the bulge, ending up on a slab. Climb the chickenhead covered slab up and right to the overhanging handcrack. Pull this roof and anchor on the tree directly above.

There are two other options for topping out to keep this climb at 5.9+. At the slab, either go around the roof to the right(5.8) or traverse left to top out(5.6). These alternatives avoid some great moves, though.

Location

Located near the right end of the West Main Bluff, this is the first line right around the corner from Fat City. It is a large overhanging offwidth that slants right.

Protection

Standard rack plus offwidth gear. No small stuff necessary. Anchor at trees. Best descent is to top out and hike to the Ramp descent near the Chickenhead Wall.

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