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Routes in Putterman's Buttress

Mt. Julian Fisher-Fat Bastard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Porno Night at Eric's T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Richard the 3rd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unkown T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Cam Burns, Charlie French Sept., 1997
Page Views: 1,467 total, 11/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 28, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climbs a very small tower which is just barely detatched from the cliffband behind it. The route climbs the left side of this small tower. There are 4 bolts on this climb.

Location

This route is on the small red cliffband above the road, and below the big cliffs which make up the River Road Canyon. Rap from slings around the summit of this small spire.

Protection

4 QD's, maybe a sling or two.

Photos

JFM
  5.7
JFM  
  5.7
After reading the comments, I couldn't help but want to climb this route. Wait-- did I say "want"? I meant "NEED." It rivals Castleton in all but the too-short approach.

But really, not bad for a final stop on the way out of town. The approach is easy enough, the belay area isn't *too* loose, and your partner will only throw small chunks of mud-rock at you if he's careful. Remember to pull down and not out & test your holds before committing, kids...

3 bolts as of 3-19-15. There were several lengths of cord around the summit with rap rings. They were in serviceable condition, but could use occasional replacement. You'll need ~25ft of cord to double-wrap and tie off the station. Mar 20, 2015
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
what a great little route. easy to get to, easy to find. only 3 bolts. ???. don't think i missed one. a little run to the first bolt and a little run after the last. possible to get a .5 camalot in after the last bolt to reduce the run but not mando by any means. no moves harder than 5.6 but the runouts and rock quality defiantly make this 5.7. great first tower or easy day. i liked it. two stars. May 23, 2010
I am absolutely floored (and flawed) this thing was ever repeated. Oh well, my hopes about humanity have been smashed.... Jun 24, 2008
James Garrett
  5.8-
James Garrett  
  5.8-
Pertinent Todd quote/comment! I kind of liked this little diversion as well! It is certainly at the toes of the giants, but my heart was racing a bit (too much?) just getting to the first bolt on this "5.7". It was my partner's first "tower" and we ticked it the same day after ski touring in the La Sals. It became a full action multi-activity day for a quick trip to the Dez. Thanks Cam! Apr 23, 2008
ElGringo
denver
 
ElGringo   denver
 
At times it felt like climbing used kitty litter. Easy pit stop on the way out of town though. Apr 17, 2008
denise 911
fort collins, co
 
denise 911   fort collins, co
 
Fun start in the chimney - got a bit sketched when I had a hold break off before the first bolt (my real intro to desert climbing I guess). Bit of exposure before the first bolt, inviting face climb other than the rock quality leaves something to be desired. Mar 31, 2008
Shawn Gibson
San Antonio, Texas
Shawn Gibson   San Antonio, Texas
Well I certainly appreciated the bolts. I heard about this climb when I only had two hours to burn so I ticked it off on rope solo.

Otherwise I would'nt have got to climb at all, so thanks mr. bolter man. Sep 14, 2007
Nice! Jun 17, 2007
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Is this a desert tower (for you tower tickers...)? Well......ummmmm....hmmmmm...errrrrr...ahhhh....you decide. It's pretty small, and just slighly detatched. It aint' The Titan or Moses. Leave it to Cam Burns (At least the area has a Putterman name......). A quick tick close to the road. There are some other strange climbs with big heucos, and fixed tied off slings through the heucos nearby this tower........Climbing here is truly nibbling at the toes of the giants. This area is sort of lame, but sort of cool too;....it's rock climbing, and that's what we do. Check it out for yourself and then YOU decide. They can't all be dick-wrenching mega-classics. May 28, 2007