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Routes in Knome Dome aka Water Dome

Heels over Heads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiddo Climb S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
River Madness T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sleeping Beauty S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tourists and Fishermen S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Babies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waterslide S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Peter Williams & Peter Gallagher, 1979
Page Views: 1,177 total, 9/month
Shared By: Bill Schmausser on May 26, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


This is the third route from the left on the Water Dome. Climb the easy, bolted face to the obvious crack through the roof. Pull the roof with trad gear.


Draws, pro to 3"


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Chris Mack
Chris Mack  
This route is actually pretty cool. A bit of a 1 move wonder as the roof is certainly out of character with the rest of the route... and kind of desperate! Good route though! Dec 1, 2012
Bill Schmausser
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Schmausser   Colorado Springs, CO

You are quite correct, I don't really care about the whole ownership thing, I find the politics of climbing to be largely pejorative and immaterial. However, I do recognize that such matters do concern you profoundly and while we would disagree as to their substance, I do respect your interest. Ergo, I have amended the routes to accurately reflect what you believe is your FA, listing the other climb as a variant.

How's that for sensitivity :)

Cheers May 30, 2007
Bill Schmausser
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Schmausser   Colorado Springs, CO
Actually fellas, River Madness is the 'direct start' via the hard slab below HoH. Having climbed HoH with both Becker and Cheney, they both generaly started just left of the hard slab and 5th classed 5.9 (no gear) up to the roof. Randy Zuckerman and I drilled the two lower bolts on the lead almost 20 years ago. They should probably be listed as separate routes or River Madness as an alternate start. Either way, I really don't care but I know how 'sensitive' you guys are ;)

Franky we'd all be better off if they removed the FA box on these routes, IMHO.

Cheers May 30, 2007
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Not that it really matters but the book was still at the MC when I left the Springs in '87. May 28, 2007
I think Steve Cheyney put the 2 bolts in the lower slab below the roof back in the mid-eighties, so they are not exactly new.... May 28, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The subsequent FA party should remove the bolts and do their best to patch the holes. May 27, 2007