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Routes in Bluff Cliffs

Bluff Cliffs One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Brian Povolny, Jan, 1983.
Page Views: 83 total, 1/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 26, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed. Details

Description

This is the 3rd crack system left of the edge of the cliff. Climb up a groove, then into a squeeze, and then lieback up the right side of a pillar. Rap from a piton and a fixed stopper.

Location

Between mile marker 18 and 19 , about 5 miles south of Bluff, Utah, on U S 191.

Protection

maybe a double set of cams.

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
This climb sucks. We had driven by this cliff many times and saw cracks. The day we climbed here, we had actually tried to reach a large frozen waterfall which is south of Lukaichukai, and very visible WAY up high on the skyline from the main road, but we couldn't find a way to get to it. We didn't want to waste the day, so we drove north and hiked up the this cliffband. The rock is very soft, and the climbing seemed dicey. The anchor is probably crap too. I don't recommend climbing here. I see in Eric's Desert Rock IV that ther is another route now on this cliff; a 5.11 climb put up by Brett Ruckman and Tim Coats. That climb is called Crow's Feet, and is just to the left of Bluff Cliffs One. May 27, 2007