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Routes in Carbuncle Buttress

Handy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Made to be Broken S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Riddler's Delight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe French, 2003
Page Views: 7,402 total, 58/month
Shared By: Gaar on May 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Look directly at the lodge....Look up....See the buttress with the diving board on the top?!...Take one of the many trails up to the base of the butress(15min uphill) and climb the middle of the face. Follow the bolts

Protection

10-12 draws and one 70m rope....A 60m rope will work but is cutting it CLOSE
When we climbed this, there was a bolt that looked like it was added more recently located right after the P1 anchors. It adds some drag, but can reduce the FF2 possibility to a kicking your belayer in the face possibility.

This route had shade until the mid afternoon in late July Oct 5, 2017
Nate Young
Phoenix
Nate Young   Phoenix
Did only the first pitch of this route because one waning daylight. I was skeptical of the PG-13 rating for this climb, especially at the 4th bolt where I look up and the only bolt I see is 25 feet to the left at a 45 degree angle. I was about to come down but thought there is no way there would be this large a gap between bolts, it's just not safe. So I ventured up on good holds for 10 feet or so when I spotted the real 5th bolt, hidden behind some sandstone plates. So if you get to the 4th bolt and are feeling skeptical about the run-out, just start heading for that bolt WAY OUT THERE and you'll run smack into another bolt that will save your bacon. Also, make sure you bring some slings, the route does wonder a little ways in some places. I would agree it's a solid 10+ climb if you are used to areas that are rated a little soft. Many places I've climbed, this would be an 11a-b route for sure due to some tricky pinches and whatnot to stick cruxes. I did the first pitch with a partner in less than 45 minutes, so this whole route could be completed in about 3 hours (Including raps) if you are comfy at the grade and have your lead swaps down pretty good. All-in-all I liked the bolt spacing and though the holds were very unique. Oct 24, 2016
Michael Dom
  5.10+
Michael Dom  
  5.10+
The third pitch was amazing. I didn't really think this route was all that runout. The traverse on the first pitch definitely made me think about what I was doing however. Bring a few long slings for when you start traversing. My second was too short for some of the first moves on the first pitch but she clocks in at 5'4.

As for the approach, you will be coming in from the right side. Watch out for cacti. Dec 22, 2015
drock3  
Super fun route. Went out expecting a nice relaxed day of sport climbing. The route was a bit more taxing than expected. Still a great day.

In regards to the PG13. I'm on the fence. I don't think it's PG13 because of bolt spacing in general, but pitches 2 and 3 involved pulling pretty hard moves right off the anchors. This resulted in having this "holy shit don't FF2" feeling for a bit. In reality the 1st bolt of the pitches weren't far up so a FF2 wasn't a real concern. The fall in between the 1st and 2nd bolts would not be much more pleasant however. It just created a tense feeling for climber and belayer for the first 15 feet of each pitch. The rest of the climbing was perfectly protected.

In regards to the grade. I think anywhere else this would be 10+ without much discussion. I think the reason it feels harder is because of the rock quality. Everything feels like it's going to break. All of the slabby feet feel like sand (because well, they are!), so you never feel comfy. I don't think the grade should change, but going into it expecting to have 400ft of legit climbing.

70M rope made for super comfy raps. took no more than 15 min to get down. Nov 12, 2013
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.11-
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.11-
As others have noted, there are a couple cruxes that felt kind of stout for the guidebook rating of 10+. I'll go with 11-, but I also wouldn't argue with anyone who said there were a few mid-11 moves. Then again, maybe I didn't find the best way. It's not like there's chalk all over this thing.

Regarding the safety rating, I'm in the not-PG13 camp. Nothing dangerous here, just don't expect a bolt at your waist for every single 5.10 move.

Rappelled with a single 60m no problem. We simul-rappelled, so maybe we had a bit of extra stretch, but I don't remember anything even close to the ends.

Fun climbing with a pretty mellow approach and a unique route for Zion. Felt kind of like a Red Rocks multi-pitch sport route but with a distinctly Zion flavor. Double roofs/bulges on P3 were my favorite part.

Apr 1, 2013
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I found the route challenging for 10+. Furthermore, there are runouts, and at least one spot where one must make crux moves before clipping the bolt, over a small ledge.

A rope solo. I'd give it a PG13. Mar 10, 2012
paulmadry
  5.10+
paulmadry  
  5.10+
I think there is nothing pg13 about this route. Maybe feels pg at the beginning of second pitch (only if you worry that sandstone bolts are iffy, because you are above first bolt). Fun route to take your mind of protection in Zion. Oct 24, 2011
Alec LaLonde
  5.10+
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10+
The name says it all. Take the typical Zion free climbing experience and apply it to sport climbing. This isn't your typical sport route, there are 10+ foot runouts (exciting but not unreasonable) on sharp slabby stone with often suspect holds. We didn't break anything but were pretty cautious about what we pulled/stepped on.

The rap stations are in good shape, with new bolts and redundant chain/links. Be careful if you do double raps as the route wanders a bit and may require a bunch of swinging around to get to the next station.

The climbing tends to get easier and the rock poorer the higher you get. It's solid 5.10+ with perhaps a couple harder short bouldery cruxes. The crux may be the first few moves.

This is an excellent route with a nice variety of steep pulling, technical face climbing and challenging slabs. Kudos to the first ascent party for all their work! Apr 18, 2011
Austin Baird
SLC, Utah
Austin Baird   SLC, Utah
What makes this a PG-13? May 1, 2010
Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
PleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePlease

Bring 10 steel rap-rings and a wrench for the belays. As of 12/05/08 the belays were bolts with single quicklinks, causing serious rope twisting when pulling the ropes on the rappels. This could be bad if your only rope gets stuck simply because it spun around itself a million times.

You could use 4 slings to cut down on rope drag.

This route is pretty spooky, I would recommend being a solid 5.11 sport leader before hopping on this.

Cool summit. Dec 8, 2008