All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Carbuncle Buttress

Made to be Broken

Name: Made to be Broken
Rating: 3.2

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13

Routes in Carbuncle Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Carols Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Handy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Just Another Jam T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Made to be Broken S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Riddler's Delight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	37.24951, -112.95271
FA:	Joe French, 2003
Page Views:	12,859 total · 55/month
Shared By:	Gaar on May 26, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

55 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:

nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…

Description

Look directly at the lodge....Look up....See the buttress with the diving board on the top?!...Take one of the many trails up to the base of the butress(15min uphill) and climb the middle of the face. Follow the bolts

Here is a rough pitch breakdown:

P1: Long and pretty consistent with the hardest moves near the top, which feel even harder due to rope drag (9 bolts). That said, all of the falls would be clean but long.

P2: There is another tricky slab section off the belay, the rest of the pitch is pretty cruiser (9 bolts).

P3: I started slightly right of the belay to get to the first bolt and it felt very secure (going straight up looked very thin and you wouldn't want to fall back onto the belay ledge). The roof sequence might feel harder if you are short, but it is well protected (10 bolts).

P4: There are some large loose flakes but you can avoid them completely by sticking to the face (7 bolts).

P5: Short steep section on jugs off the belay to very easy climbing after the first bolt (4 bolts).