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The Thumb
5.6,
Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches,
Avg: 3.3 from 11
votes
FA: Hans Huter, Gustav Jahn, Erwin Merlet. 1917
International
> Europe
> Italy
> Dolomites
> Sassolungo (Lan…
> Punta Delle Cinque Dita
Description
Pitch 1 - Face climb up to the large scree covered ledge.
Pitch 2 - Traverse right along the ledge to the base of the ridge.
Pitch 3 - Face climb up with good holds to a stance on a smaller ledge.
Pitch 4 - Face climb up to a shoulder on the ridge near some blocks.
Pitch 5 - Leave the ledge and follow a broken crack system up to a small ledge.
Pitch 6 - Face climb up on good holds to another small ledge.
Pitch 7 - Face climb up on more exposed terrain.
Pitch 8 - More face climbing up along the ridge.
Pitch 9 - Easy face climbing on good holds to the top of "The Thumb".
Descent - Downclimb towards the notch. Make two rappels from ring bots. Then scramble down the gully and back to Sella Pass Hut.
Location
The route ascends the south-east side of Punta Delle Cinque Dita. It is easily seen from the road.
Protection
There are a number of pins in place. Maybe a light set of nuts.
[Hide Photo] This spire is spectacular - from any angle.
[Hide Photo] Near maximum telephoto from Sella Pass highway. Day was too hazy to use more magnification. Route follows the Righthand skyline for the great part of the time.
[Hide Photo] The right skyline delineates the upper portion of the Thumb Route, known to Germanic climbers as the "Daumenkante." (Thumb arête)
[Hide Photo] Temperature was far from ideal, and second party retreated. Weather was also deteriorating rapidly.
[Hide Photo] Climbers silhouetted on the steepening arête.
[Hide Photo] The large scree covered ledge comprises pitch 2, with some scrambling or easy roped climbing to reach the skyline ridge.
[Hide Photo] Several parties at the start of the Thumb Route (Daumenkante).
Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID
Billings, MT
Pollock Pines, CA
Wonderful route, very steep for the grade although that isn't uncommon in the dolomites. 5.6 with maybe a few moves of 5.7. A bit runout like many of these climbs so you want to be comfortable at the grade. Sep 6, 2019
Baltimore, MD
tonidemetz.it/it/arrampicat…
tonidemetz.it/img/climbing-… Sep 15, 2022
Bend
Babylon