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5.7 C2 X, Trad, Aid, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 1 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Navajolands > Cleopatra's Needle Area
Warning Access Issue: Closed. DetailsDrop down

Description

p1 (lead by Andy Dannerbeck) was very soft and had loose blocks with 1 piece of pro. All free @ 5.7 and ends at two drilled angles.
p2 climb C.1+ crack past fixed pin to double drilled pin anchor.

hole count: 1 on p2, 4 belay total = 5

Location

The second pitch is the analog of the Bandito route which faces the road on the south end. This route is concealed on the back side, although the grazing permitee had no issues with us at the time, 18 years ago.

Protection

standard desert rack (hammerless)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Angel Wing from the skinny side. The Bandito Route is pictured, Oreo Girls is around the corner on the right side.
[Hide Photo] Angel Wing from the skinny side. The Bandito Route is pictured, Oreo Girls is around the corner on the right side.
Summit of Angel Wing.
[Hide Photo] Summit of Angel Wing.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO
5.8 C1+ X
[Hide Comment] A description from our ascent in 2011. Ignore for full adventure:

This route is on the west face and is hidden from the nearby road.
P1: 5.8 X Angle up and left along right-facing features and chossy blocks to a double drilled angle anchor at a sloping ledge. Rack to #4, (2) #3 Camalots, (1) Black Alien (90’)
P2: C1+ Tension traverse left to another crack system. Aid up the thin crack past a drilled angle and up to a hanging anchor. Clip the anchor and then continue another 15ft to the summit. This pitch could go free (12+/13-?) and the rock is actually pretty good. 1 fixed pin, medium-sized nuts, (4) Blue Metolious, (1) Blue Alien, (1) Purple Master Cam, (4) Green Alien, (2-3) 0.4 Camalots, (3) 0.5 Camalots, (4) .75 Camalots, (3) #1 Camalots, (2) #2 Camalots, (1) #4 Camalot (90’)
Descent: Bring 40ft of webbing to wrap summit and back up the fixed pin and bolt anchor (fp is in shit rock). A single double-rope rappel will reach the ground. Dec 16, 2017