Type: Trad, Aid, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,308 total · 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 26, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closed. Details

Description

p1 (lead by Andy Dannerbeck) was very soft and had loose blocks with 1 piece of pro. All free @ 5.7 and ends at two drilled angles.
p2 climb C.1+ crack past fixed pin to double drilled pin anchor.

hole count: 1 on p2, 4 belay total = 5

Location

The second pitch is the analog of the Bandito route which faces the road on the south end. This route is concealed on the back side, although the grazing permitee had no issues with us at the time, 18 years ago.

Protection

standard desert rack (hammerless)

Photos

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
I was actually able to sew up the first pitch pretty well with lots of cams, but they're basically all behind loose blocks so who knows if anything would have held. It seemed a touch harder than 5.7 too but maybe I was just gripped because the entire pitch is super loose. This is definitely one of those times where it's hard to know if it's X, R+ or PG because you never know if the gear might just hold. All the anchors seemed pretty good to me. I was a little disappointed not to find any of the rumored trinkets on top! Rad tower! Oct 5, 2015
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.8 C1+ X
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.8 C1+ X
A description from our ascent in 2011. Ignore for full adventure:

This route is on the west face and is hidden from the nearby road.
P1: 5.8 X Angle up and left along right-facing features and chossy blocks to a double drilled angle anchor at a sloping ledge. Rack to #4, (2) #3 Camalots, (1) Black Alien (90’)
P2: C1+ Tension traverse left to another crack system. Aid up the thin crack past a drilled angle and up to a hanging anchor. Clip the anchor and then continue another 15ft to the summit. This pitch could go free (12+/13-?) and the rock is actually pretty good. 1 fixed pin, medium-sized nuts, (4) Blue Metolious, (1) Blue Alien, (1) Purple Master Cam, (4) Green Alien, (2-3) 0.4 Camalots, (3) 0.5 Camalots, (4) .75 Camalots, (3) #1 Camalots, (2) #2 Camalots, (1) #4 Camalot (90’)
Descent: Bring 40ft of webbing to wrap summit and back up the fixed pin and bolt anchor (fp is in shit rock). A single double-rope rappel will reach the ground. Dec 16, 2017