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Routes in Cleopatra's Needle Area

Angel Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Angel Wing- Oreo Girls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 X
Cleopatra's Needle, East Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Navajo Needle West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Venus Needle, East Face T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1-2 PG13
Venus Needle, West Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Type: Trad, Aid, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,228 total, 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 26, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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Closed. Details


p1 (lead by Andy Dannerbeck) was very soft and had loose blocks with 1 piece of pro. All free @ 5.7 and ends at two drilled angles.
p2 climb C.1+ crack past fixed pin to double drilled pin anchor.

hole count: 1 on p2, 4 belay total = 5


The second pitch is the analog of the Bandito route which faces the road on the south end. This route is concealed on the back side, although the grazing permitee had no issues with us at the time, 18 years ago.


standard desert rack (hammerless)


Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
I was actually able to sew up the first pitch pretty well with lots of cams, but they're basically all behind loose blocks so who knows if anything would have held. It seemed a touch harder than 5.7 too but maybe I was just gripped because the entire pitch is super loose. This is definitely one of those times where it's hard to know if it's X, R+ or PG because you never know if the gear might just hold. All the anchors seemed pretty good to me. I was a little disappointed not to find any of the rumored trinkets on top! Rad tower! Oct 5, 2015