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Excessive Bail

5.11a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 67 votes
FA: Glen Oross
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Zoo

Description

Starts to the right of the bolts and moves left after the 2nd bolt. Rock at the bottom is solid w/small pockets and edges. The seam that runs between the 3rd and 4th bolt offers some good hand holds. Crux is getting above the 4th bolt. Milk the rest at the 4th bolt for the rest of the route. Holds have fallen from the upper section over the years and has changed the route a little.

Location

To the left of The Zoo.

Protection

6 bolts plus chains

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nearing the top of <em>Excessive Bail</em>.<br> <br> (Josh Graham belayed by Perin Blanchard)
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top of Excessive Bail. (Josh Graham belayed by Perin Blanchard)
The Zoo from the east.<br> 2 [[106158989]] 5.11b/c<br> 3 [[105967626]] 5.11a<br> 4 [[105932084]] 5.10b
[Hide Photo] The Zoo from the east. 2 Lightning Bolt 5.11b/c 3 Excessive Bail 5.11a 4 The Zoo 5.10b
Nearing the top on excessive bail
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top on excessive bail

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

D. Durrant
Utah, USA
[Hide Comment] GIVE A SPOT! Oct 11, 2007
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Really nice moves on great rock. The sequence is really neat to figure out. May 9, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] A spotter would definitely be great as the crux seems to be right before or right after the first bolt rather than higher up. This route is very sustained with few places to take a solid rest. There are plenty of good holds, but you really have to search around for them. Pockets, to crimps, sidepulls, and the occasional gaston. Sep 14, 2008
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] +1 on the crux being down low, a third person to spot was very nice to have. The moves are easier past the second bolt, but still strenuous. VERY FUN. May 17, 2010
Canyon Copa
 
[Hide Comment] Thin start makes for a very relieving first clip. Really fun climb but watch out clipping the third bolt as a fall leads to a huge swing down to the right. Cool location is also a plus. May 30, 2012
Horace Honkenstine
[Hide Comment] Fantastic route. I've heard of people hand jamming in the crack and getting an amazing rest right after crossing over past the third bolt Oct 3, 2012
Tim Moore
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Very difficult start and a high committing first bolt. Someone bolted up a new line just to the left of it for an "alternate" start although both routes meet up in the middle. Towards the end gets tough especially if you don't go right which is probably off the route a little. Mar 29, 2014
kyram adsit
springville
 
[Hide Comment] i bolted the link up last summer. it goes at 5.11+ its called "Rainy Day at the Zoo". i tried adding the route to mountain project last summer but i guess i just wasnt smert enough. ENJOY! Apr 25, 2014