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Routes in Super Hits - Bloody Fingers

Bloody Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Double Vision T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mystery Achievement S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Toy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Twist and Crawl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 738 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 25, 2007 with updates
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

A good line with a nice looking slot, which gets wider the closer you get...
Smear, stuff your self in, friction up, etc... If you like chimneys it is fun; if not... well, then not.

Location

This is the left-facing slot about 4 meters to the Right of Bloody Fingers. Climb up into it, then keep going. Belay up top, then rap as for Twist And Crawl, from the fixed anchors on that route.

Protection

This and that on the way up. There are some spots/cracks for standard pro, but not a lot in places. Take a rack to 4" and run it out anyway.

Photos

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Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
For gear, I used BD C4s 0.3 (1), 1 (1), 2 (2), 3 (1), & 4 (1) as well as a couple of the smaller BD C3 cams with three double-length slings and seven single-length slings. Standard rack was too big.

Double-length slings helped for a few pieces way back in the chimney. Don't miss the 2 to 3 inch crack on the inside-right nearer the top that is kind of hidden from below. Jul 30, 2017
goingUp
over here
goingUp   over here
Partner and I got a cam stuck in here the other day... came back to retrieve it later and it was gone...
Id love it back... ill buy you some beer and good karma. Ill give you the details... please let me know if you pulled it!!! Oct 16, 2015
Blitzo  
This is a fun chimney. More like 5.5 than 5.6, if there's that much difference. Aug 23, 2010