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Routes in Shelbyville

Mr. Putterman Goes to Washington T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0
Putterman Drops the Soap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1+
Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Cam Burns, Jesse Harey, Feb., 1998
Page Views: 106 total, 1/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 25, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch one ; climb a ramp/corner (5.9/A1). Climb a short wall past 2 bolts, then move right and scramble up a block-filled chimney on the right. Pitch 3; move up and left past a bolt, and easier ground. Pitch 4' Walk to top.

Location

Route starts at the bottom of the SW corner of the formation.

Protection

2 sets of cams with extra #4,#5, 1 set of wires.

Photos

paul bucher
moab, utah
5.10- A0 PG13
paul bucher   moab, utah
5.10- A0 PG13
as of 7/15/12. could use new sling at anchors. we had planned to replace but a storm was moving in. bring extra fatties for the first pitch. dump at belay and singles to a three camalot to the top is way more than enough. fun, hard and dirty. goes free at 10-. taylor bond did an awesome job on the belay. thanks dude. Jul 17, 2012
slim

  5.10a C0
slim    
  5.10a C0
is there any way to remove the aid rating from my assessment? goes free pretty easily. Sep 15, 2011
slim

  5.10a C0
slim    
  5.10a C0
interesting route. first pitch is quite good - physical, wide, 3-dimensional, nice fairly long pitch with good rock. second pitch is an OK but short awkward boulder problem, 9+/10- or so with 2 hangerless bolts that are actually more dangerous than helpful (they want to stab you). third pitch has some pretty bad rock, rope drag, and awkward climbing, goes free at 10- or so, but crux could be easily aided. fourth pitch rope scramble to the top.

good bolt anchors for rapping at end of first pitch and near the end of the third pitch. you can get down easily with 1 70m rope, a 60m rope might be cutting it close getting to the ground.

rack recommendation - single set of tcus to #1 camalot, double set from #2 camalot to #6 camalot should be more than enough. bunch of long slings. bring a couple pieces of long webbing to rejuvenate the rap anchors. helmet definitely a good idea. May 17, 2011
Geoff Unger
Moab, UT
 
Geoff Unger   Moab, UT
 
I climbed this route today and I would not really recommend it. The first pitch was maybe one and a half stars and after that it goes in the tank. We freed this tower and are not sure where the aid would go.
The only thing to recommend this tower is that you get a nice view of Kane Springs canyon that you can get from just about everywhere else in Kane Springs canyon. Nov 18, 2009
Yup, not sure what the A1/C1 was we added...Cammo May 26, 2008
I climbed this route with Paul Irby on Jan 30, 2004 and we did the route free at 5.9+ Nov 27, 2007
Sounds like a bolt or two were added..... Jun 21, 2007
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
This route is an odd one. First of all;...the Putterman routes.....Putterman this, Putterman that;..it's a bit maddening.....The bolt placements were a bit odd too;.....seemed to be placed in odd places. ...anchors too. We added a pin up on one section near or at the top as well, if I remember correctly. The climbing is broken up with steep sections, followed by flat ledges covered in rubble. It's a wierd sort of adventure; not all together irritating, but a bit odd. We had fun. I did this with my wife (Andrea) in April of 02. It's beautiful up Kain Springs Canyon. There is a detailed description of this climb (and other Putterman climbs, if you are into "collecting" them..) in Cam Burns Selected Climbs in the Desert SW Book...a very cool collection of mostly classic desert climbs.....(I said mostly, didn't I?) May 26, 2007