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Routes in Observatory Dome
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Deep Impact T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Looks Can Be Deceiving T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Observatory T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rain Man T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ryan's Song T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 480 ft (145 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Bradley & Mayrose, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 852 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on May 25, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a line up Observatory Dome just right of the obvious, right-facing dihedral. Interestingly, S. Kimball describes it as "to the right of the major curving, diedral, climb cracks and slabs for two full pitches." Rossiter describes it as "climb two pitches of cracks and slabs out to the right from the big dihedral." Gillett describes it as "ascending the face right of the dihedral, beginning in a left-leaning crack. Head right at the crack's end." Hmmm. This sucker is more than 2 pitches in length unless you start on something else.
So, here's one variation (the original line may have started off the ledge coming in from the right, about a pitch up):
P1. Start in the obvious, left-facing chimney. Fight a tree and bush. Then chimney up to a crack with chockstones (some a bit loose, some freed from their perches). Continue up to a large ledge, ~180'.
P2. Continue up to the beginning of the big, right-facing dihedral. Move right at its beginning. Continue up cracks & face mostly about 20 feet right of the dihedral. Belay at a good ledge with a small, dead tree, ~200'.
P3. Here you have a few choices: The original line probably went up and likely exited to the right below the overhangs. You can also go up and left to the top of the dihedral for a bit of jamming, ~100' to a tree.
Walkoff left.
This route is on the lean side of a star, but there aren't any crowds, and there is plenty of room for FAs up here.
Addendum: in retrospect, I think this climb may have originally been climbed by approaching along a ledge system from the right which probably would have skipped the P1 described above.
So, here's one variation (the original line may have started off the ledge coming in from the right, about a pitch up):
P1. Start in the obvious, left-facing chimney. Fight a tree and bush. Then chimney up to a crack with chockstones (some a bit loose, some freed from their perches). Continue up to a large ledge, ~180'.
P2. Continue up to the beginning of the big, right-facing dihedral. Move right at its beginning. Continue up cracks & face mostly about 20 feet right of the dihedral. Belay at a good ledge with a small, dead tree, ~200'.
P3. Here you have a few choices: The original line probably went up and likely exited to the right below the overhangs. You can also go up and left to the top of the dihedral for a bit of jamming, ~100' to a tree.
Walkoff left.
This route is on the lean side of a star, but there aren't any crowds, and there is plenty of room for FAs up here.
Addendum: in retrospect, I think this climb may have originally been climbed by approaching along a ledge system from the right which probably would have skipped the P1 described above.
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