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Routes in Piz Pordoi

Fedele T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante” T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 2625 ft, 26 pitches
FA: Fedele Bernard, Giorgio mase Dari. 1929
Page Views: 5,608 total, 44/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2007
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is a really long route. That being said, the climbing is not too difficult and it is possible to move fast up this face.

Pitch 1 - Up a corner and right on ledge. (40m)
Pitch 2 - Continue right on ledge. (40m)
Pitch 3 - Follow a ramp back to the left. (40m)
Pitch 4 - Face climb right to before the black water streaks. (40m)
Pitch 5 - Follow a ledge right, crossing the black water streaks. (40m)
Pitch 6 - Climb face and groove. (35m)
Pitch 7 - Traverse right on ledge. (25m)
Pitch 8 - Climb up through overhangs to top of small pillar. (35m)
Pitch 9 - Climb face up and left. (40m)
Pitch 10 - Climb chimney, trending up and left. (35m)
Pitch 11 - Continue up and left through chimney. (25m)
Pitch 12 - Face climb up and step right to ledge. (40m)
Pitch 13 - Follow broken crack and face passing a ledge. (35m)
Pitch 14 - Up and left through a groove/corner. (30m)
Pitch 15 - Short chimney to face climbing. (30m)
Pitch 16 - Face climb towards the black water streaks. (25m)
Pitch 17 - Climb up through the often wet black water streaks. (40m)
Pitch 18 - Traverse up and left out of the black water streaks to a ledge. (40m)
Pitch 19 - Climb up to a small stance and then a chimney. (40m)
Pitch 20 - Finish the chimney to arrive at the large terrace. (25m)
Pitch 21 - Move to the back of the terrace and climb up broken crack. (30m)
Pitch 22 - More broken crack to the base of a chimney. (40m)
Pitch 23 - Climb the chimney up and slightly right. (40m)
Pitch 24 - Continue up the chimney. (35m)
Pitch 25 - More of the same chimney system. (45m)
Pitch 26 - Leave the chimney and face climb to the top of the formation. (45m)

Descent - Head towards the line-cart and then down the long marked gully and back to the base of the wall.

Location

The route ascends the north-west face of Piz Pordoi. Park on the Sella Pass road at the Pian Schiavaneis Inn.

Protection

There are a number of pins on the route. Bring a selection of nuts and small cams. Extra slings are also useful.

Photos

Thomas Martin
Salt Lake City, Utah
Thomas Martin   Salt Lake City, Utah
Hey man, how was the trip? I think I am currently in the position you were in last Febuary? Do you care to share what you found and what you recommend? Nov 30, 2011
Rob Booher
Knoxville, TN
Rob Booher   Knoxville, TN
This looks incredible. I'm planning a summer in Italy and Switzerland for this coming season. Do you have any other beta on the Dolomites? Any help is appreciated, as I am currently going at it blind. Feb 16, 2011