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Routes in Piz Pordoi

Fedele T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante” T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 2625 ft, 26 pitches
FA: Fedele Bernard, Giorgio mase Dari. 1929
Page Views: 5,686 total · 43/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2007
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is a really long route. That being said, the climbing is not too difficult and it is possible to move fast up this face.

Pitch 1 - Up a corner and right on ledge. (40m)
Pitch 2 - Continue right on ledge. (40m)
Pitch 3 - Follow a ramp back to the left. (40m)
Pitch 4 - Face climb right to before the black water streaks. (40m)
Pitch 5 - Follow a ledge right, crossing the black water streaks. (40m)
Pitch 6 - Climb face and groove. (35m)
Pitch 7 - Traverse right on ledge. (25m)
Pitch 8 - Climb up through overhangs to top of small pillar. (35m)
Pitch 9 - Climb face up and left. (40m)
Pitch 10 - Climb chimney, trending up and left. (35m)
Pitch 11 - Continue up and left through chimney. (25m)
Pitch 12 - Face climb up and step right to ledge. (40m)
Pitch 13 - Follow broken crack and face passing a ledge. (35m)
Pitch 14 - Up and left through a groove/corner. (30m)
Pitch 15 - Short chimney to face climbing. (30m)
Pitch 16 - Face climb towards the black water streaks. (25m)
Pitch 17 - Climb up through the often wet black water streaks. (40m)
Pitch 18 - Traverse up and left out of the black water streaks to a ledge. (40m)
Pitch 19 - Climb up to a small stance and then a chimney. (40m)
Pitch 20 - Finish the chimney to arrive at the large terrace. (25m)
Pitch 21 - Move to the back of the terrace and climb up broken crack. (30m)
Pitch 22 - More broken crack to the base of a chimney. (40m)
Pitch 23 - Climb the chimney up and slightly right. (40m)
Pitch 24 - Continue up the chimney. (35m)
Pitch 25 - More of the same chimney system. (45m)
Pitch 26 - Leave the chimney and face climb to the top of the formation. (45m)

Descent - Head towards the line-cart and then down the long marked gully and back to the base of the wall.

Location

The route ascends the north-west face of Piz Pordoi. Park on the Sella Pass road at the Pian Schiavaneis Inn.

Protection

There are a number of pins on the route. Bring a selection of nuts and small cams. Extra slings are also useful.

Photos

Rob Booher
Knoxville, TN
Rob Booher   Knoxville, TN
This looks incredible. I'm planning a summer in Italy and Switzerland for this coming season. Do you have any other beta on the Dolomites? Any help is appreciated, as I am currently going at it blind. Feb 16, 2011
Thomas Martin
Salt Lake City, Utah
Thomas Martin   Salt Lake City, Utah
Hey man, how was the trip? I think I am currently in the position you were in last Febuary? Do you care to share what you found and what you recommend? Nov 30, 2011

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