All Locations > International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Sella Group > Passo Sella Area > Piz Ciavazes
Schubert (Friendhip Route)
Avg: 3.7 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 820 ft, 7 pitches|
|FA:||Pit Schubert, Karl Heinz Matthies. 1967|
|Page Views:||2,309 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||e Dixon on May 25, 2007|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionThe Friendship Route, or Schubert, is a perfect route for those who are comfortable on Dolomites grade 6. For Americans, imagine a thousand foot Shelf Road cliff with no bolts. The traditional protection is not always the kind of gear you'd want to huck onto. We read that all the belays had solid bolts, but this did not seem to be so
This is a great line. It is steep, exposed, and continuous!
Pitch 1 - The crux right off the bat! Climb the right-facing corner then up steep slabs. (35m)
Pitch 2 - Climb broken cracks up and slightly right to near the large gully right of the route. (45m)
Pitch 3 - Follow a line that links up a series of more broken cracks to a small stance near the gully to the right. (45m)
Pitch 4 - Step left and climb slabs to the right of a groove. (35m)
Pitch 5 - Be careful not to get off route! Do not continue up the groove! Move left and find a crack that leads up to some face and a ledge. (35m)
Pitch 6 - Take the ramp up and right and face climb to a poor belay stance. (40m)
Pitch 7 - Face climb straight up to the large terrace. (50m)
Alternate route description from another duplicate page entry:
The first pitch starts with a right facing orange corner, more cams than pins. After a juggy exit left, nested pins protect the smooth 5.10a/6a face climbing crux. There are anchors at the belay. A long pitch (5.10a/b).
Pitch two starts with an awkward chimney protected by cams in loose orange rock. As the rock improves, the climbing gets harder. Belay close to the chimney with fixed anchors (5.9+).
Pitch three climbs grey rock up to a belay from less than perfect anchors where the rock changes to orange in a left facing, right leaning, dihedral (5.9). Don't continue up the difficult orange seams in the corner!
Pitch four starts with a step down left, then pulls a bulge on incut jugs out the left side of the dihedral. Continue up the face past a few pins to another fixed stance (5.9-).
Pitch five climbs more steep grey rock with sparse pro (5.8r). We found no bolt belay.
Pitch six starts with the last really hard bulge (5.8+). A short pitch seven ends at a bolt past the summit grass.
Descent - From the final belay, climb up and right and then traverse left to the gully between Piz Ciavazes and the Second Sella Tower. Then scramble down to the road.
LocationFrom Cortina, drive east on Highway 48 past the Cinque Torri, over Passo di Falzarego, and then over Passo Pordoi. A few miles down the west side of Passo Pordoi, turn right onto the Sellajoch road. Soon after the turn, the water-streaked face of Piz Pordoi is seen looming above a restaurant and refuge and Piz Ciavezes is further up across the canyon to the left of Piz Pordoi.
The route ascends the South Face of the Piz Ciavazes. Park on Sella Pass road just below the face in a large pull out just above a hairpin turn. Look for a climbers trail that leads up to the base. The route ascends the wall immediatly left of the large cleft (see photos).