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Routes in Piz Ciavazes

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schubert (Friendhip Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 820 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Pit Schubert, Karl Heinz Matthies. 1967
Page Views: 2,221 total, 17/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2007
Admins: Tim Wolfe

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

The Friendship Route, or Schubert, is a perfect route for those who are comfortable on Dolomites grade 6. For Americans, imagine a thousand foot Shelf Road cliff with no bolts. The traditional protection is not always the kind of gear you'd want to huck onto. We read that all the belays had solid bolts, but this did not seem to be so
This is a great line. It is steep, exposed, and continuous!


Pitch 1 - The crux right off the bat! Climb the right-facing corner then up steep slabs. (35m)

Pitch 2 - Climb broken cracks up and slightly right to near the large gully right of the route. (45m)

Pitch 3 - Follow a line that links up a series of more broken cracks to a small stance near the gully to the right. (45m)

Pitch 4 - Step left and climb slabs to the right of a groove. (35m)

Pitch 5 - Be careful not to get off route! Do not continue up the groove! Move left and find a crack that leads up to some face and a ledge. (35m)

Pitch 6 - Take the ramp up and right and face climb to a poor belay stance. (40m)

Pitch 7 - Face climb straight up to the large terrace. (50m)

Alternate route description from another duplicate page entry:

The first pitch starts with a right facing orange corner, more cams than pins. After a juggy exit left, nested pins protect the smooth 5.10a/6a face climbing crux. There are anchors at the belay. A long pitch (5.10a/b).

Pitch two starts with an awkward chimney protected by cams in loose orange rock. As the rock improves, the climbing gets harder. Belay close to the chimney with fixed anchors (5.9+).

Pitch three climbs grey rock up to a belay from less than perfect anchors where the rock changes to orange in a left facing, right leaning, dihedral (5.9). Don't continue up the difficult orange seams in the corner!

Pitch four starts with a step down left, then pulls a bulge on incut jugs out the left side of the dihedral. Continue up the face past a few pins to another fixed stance (5.9-).

Pitch five climbs more steep grey rock with sparse pro (5.8r). We found no bolt belay.

Pitch six starts with the last really hard bulge (5.8+). A short pitch seven ends at a bolt past the summit grass.


Descent - From the final belay, climb up and right and then traverse left to the gully between Piz Ciavazes and the Second Sella Tower. Then scramble down to the road.

Location

From Cortina, drive east on Highway 48 past the Cinque Torri, over Passo di Falzarego, and then over Passo Pordoi. A few miles down the west side of Passo Pordoi, turn right onto the Sellajoch road. Soon after the turn, the water-streaked face of Piz Pordoi is seen looming above a restaurant and refuge and Piz Ciavezes is further up across the canyon to the left of Piz Pordoi.


The route ascends the South Face of the Piz Ciavazes. Park on Sella Pass road just below the face in a large pull out just above a hairpin turn. Look for a climbers trail that leads up to the base. The route ascends the wall immediatly left of the large cleft (see photos).

Protection

There are a number of pins in place. Also brings a selection of nuts, cams and and slings. A few small cams could also useful.
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a PG13
Definitely a bit stouter than the Big Micheluzzi route and a bit more run-out in the hard sections. Be sure to have some small gear (RP’s, small cams) for some of the thin cruxes. More of a challenge than some of the other routes in the area – requires a bit more precision climbing – great warm up for something like the Messner route on the back side of Sella Towers.

Approach - Park in the dirt lot across the road from the wall and hike to the base - 10 minutes. Descent - at the half way point in the wall walk left across the entire mountain to the col between the Sella towers and Piz Ciavazes - descend into the grass then work your way back through the forest and down to your car. Jan 13, 2011
Joe Varela
  5.9+
Joe Varela  
  5.9+
Great route and fairly consistent for the first 5 pitches or so Aug 6, 2010