Vinatzer
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
| Type: | Trad, 985 ft (298 m), 13 pitches |
| GPS: | 46.51335, 11.77883 |
| FA: | Giovanni Battista Vinatzer, Vicenzo Peristi. 1935 |
| Page Views: | 5,823 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | e Dixon on May 25, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
Description
Good route that ascends the west face to the tower.
Pitch 1 - Move up over slab and trend to the left towards a small scree patch. (35m)
Pitch 2 - Face climb straight up to the base of a chimney. (45m)
Pitch 3 - Climb the chimney to a crack and through a small overhang. (40m)
Pitch 4 - Follow a broken crack and face. (40m)
Pitch 5 - Short pitch up a ramp/groove to below a small overhang. (15m)
Pitch 6 - Climb up another broken crack and some face to gain the large terrace. (45m)
Pitch 7 - Traverse left on the terrace around a large boulder to the base of a steep finger crack. (20m)
Pitch 8 - Climb the steep finger crack and then face. (25m)
Pitch 9 - Climb the crack that trends up and left to the base of a corner/groove. (25m)
Pitch 10 - Climb up and then right ascending the corner/groove. (35m)
Pitch 11 - Move right around the arete and up through a chimney to a ramp that angle up and right. (45m)
Pitch 12 - From the ramp, follow a crack up and left which leads to a chimney. Climb the chimney to a stance on a small ledge. (25m)
Pitch 13 - Climb up easy slabs to the top of the formation. (50m)
Decent: Top out, then head down towards Piz Ciavazes on a well-marked path to a ring bolt. Rappel 25m. Then rap again 25m to skiers left off of a glue in. Then you have 4 unpleasant raps each 20m off tat slung around horns to get to the terrace. Once there follow it all the way around left to a gully between tower 2 and 3. Climb down the gully until it gets steep. look left on a wide ledge to the to the next rappel. Complete 2x20m rappels. which brings you to the Last 65m rappel. With rope stretch on double 60s you just make it down.



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