Type: Trad, 985 ft (298 m), 13 pitches
GPS: 46.51335, 11.77883
FA: Giovanni Battista Vinatzer, Vicenzo Peristi. 1935
Page Views: 5,823 total · 26/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Good route that ascends the west face to the tower.

Pitch 1 - Move up over slab and trend to the left towards a small scree patch. (35m)

Pitch 2 - Face climb straight up to the base of a chimney. (45m)

Pitch 3 - Climb the chimney to a crack and through a small overhang. (40m)

Pitch 4 - Follow a broken crack and face. (40m)

Pitch 5 - Short pitch up a ramp/groove to below a small overhang. (15m)

Pitch 6 - Climb up another broken crack and some face to gain the large terrace. (45m)

Pitch 7 - Traverse left on the terrace around a large boulder to the base of a steep finger crack. (20m)

Pitch 8 - Climb the steep finger crack and then face. (25m)

Pitch 9 - Climb the crack that trends up and left to the base of a corner/groove. (25m)

Pitch 10 - Climb up and then right ascending the corner/groove. (35m)

Pitch 11 - Move right around the arete and up through a chimney to a ramp that angle up and right. (45m)

Pitch 12 - From the ramp, follow a crack up and left which leads to a chimney. Climb the chimney to a stance on a small ledge. (25m)

Pitch 13 - Climb up easy slabs to the top of the formation. (50m)

Decent: Top out, then head down towards Piz Ciavazes on a well-marked path to a ring bolt. Rappel 25m. Then rap again 25m to skiers left off of a glue in. Then you have 4 unpleasant raps each 20m off tat slung around horns to get to the terrace. Once there follow it all the way around left to a gully between tower 2 and 3. Climb down the gully until it gets steep. look left on a wide ledge to the to the next rappel. Complete 2x20m rappels. which brings you to the Last 65m rappel. With rope stretch on double 60s you just make it down.

Location Suggest change

The route ascends the west face of the tower.

Protection Suggest change

There are a number of pins in place. Bring a selection of nuts and slings. Maybe a few small to medium cams as well.

Photos

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