Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Royal Robins, Rusty Bailey
Page Views: 2,663 total · 15/month
Shared By: Greg DeMatteo on May 25, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details
Access Issue: Peregrine falcon closures from February through July. Details


Scramble up to the ledge (or belay from below) to the obvious splitter crack (one of the Butte's few). Funky moves lead up to a couple thin hand jams which is the crux about 10 feet up. This is quickly followed by a perfect hand crack that slowly widens as the climb progresses. Certainly one of the best climbs at the Butte.

Single set of cams to 4 inches. Nuts and TCU's for anchor.


Descend via Shark Fin Gully or downclimb Heart Route (5.6) if you are so inclined.


Full set of cams from TCU's to 4 inches. Nuts useful down low and for the anchor.