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Routes in The Three Gossips

Be There or Be Talked About T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
Lyon Trautner Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Speak No Evil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
West Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 3 pitches
FA: Pete Gallagher and Bego Gerhart '88
Page Views: 2,177 total · 17/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on May 24, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route climbs the South Gossip via a crack system on the right side of the west face. Like many of the routes in Arches, the start is soft, sandy, and spooky. Unlike many of the routes in Arches, the rock on the rest of this climb is mostly excellent and almost feels like wingate in places.

Pitch 1 – Climb through the soft rock either in a right facing corner or to the right of the corner. You’re aiming for a wide crack which is followed to a comfortable belay ledge. Belay from a fixed anchor. A variation climbs the thin crack to the right at 5.11d to the same belay. 5.11 or 5.10, C1 (It may even be 5.9 but the start is hard to rate)

Pitch 2 – Step right around a pillar and follow a beautiful crack up an acute dihedral to the base of the summit block. Belay from a fixed anchor on a ledge. 5.11 or 5.9, C1

Pitch 3 - A couple interesting free moves access a bolt ladder which leads to the top. C1

Rappel the Route

Protection

Two sets of Camalots including at least one #5 and #6
Runners plus a screamer or two
Aid gear for the third pitch

Photos

Evan Deis  
 
We did this in four pitches, as there are four bolted anchors.

Recommend (singles) thru #0.5, (Triples) #0.75 Thru #2, (1x) #3, (2x) #4 & #5, (1x) #6. Aiders for the bolt-ladder.

Anchors are in good shape (each is a drilled-angle paired with a button-head) but you'll want a knife to clean old tat. Bolt-Ladder is a bit of a horror-show.

We rapped from the summit to the third anchor with a single sixty, and then from the third anchor, straight to the ground with doubled sixties. Oct 30, 2017
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
Excellent route that has the best rock I've seen in Arches, a great diversity of crack sizes, and a rad summit. Don't know the current policy on anchor replacement in Arches, but this would be a very worthy candidate. A single 70m rope is sufficient for all rappels, with the final one just reaching the ground. Nov 3, 2015
justino  
Nate and I added some 5.5 tech cord and 2 biners to the rap station from the shoulder today. From there a full 60m rap takes you to the ground. Aug 16, 2014
ROUTE BETA****

Few things:

Gear- Bring a single rack up to .5 Camalot. triples of .75 to #2 Camalot. (Maybe a #3?) Bring a #4 through #6 Camalot FOR THE FIRST PITCH. (You won't need the big gear for the V-Slot Second pitch- just leave it on the plush ledge above the P1 OW).

Rappel- Bring a 60M tag line and leave it on the ledge atop the P1 OW. From there climb with a 70M line to summit and complete 2 raps from the summit back down to the ledge where you left your tag line. From this ledge it's a double-rope rap to the ground. (NOTE** for the rappel from the base of the summit block a 70M rope makes it back to the ledge atop pitch 1 with about 15ft or so to spare. NOT sure if a 60m line would work....).

Great climb. Some bolts/anchors on route are somewhat suspect. All anchors have tat. Prepare to replace if necessary. No chains.

Have fun! Apr 24, 2014
I thought it might be fun to aid solo this route yesterday. I should have looked at the pictures a little better. The majority of the route is a v-slot...or so it seemed. However, it was pretty fun and fairly easy (all but trying to use aiders in the slot. I definitely think it would be more fun to free. It you want to aid the whole route, bring about 6 - 8 #2 camalots, about 5 #1's, 2 or 3 #4's, 2 #5's, a #6, and a I think I used a .75 or a .5 in there somewhere. Had I realized this, I wouldn't have had to slide my 2 #1's and 2 #2's all the way through the third pitch. It sure was exciting though. I would give the route a C1+. All placements are bomber, just a little awkward. It felt really good to see a bolt ladder on on a flat face for the last pitch. I can't wait to go back and free it. Dec 27, 2013
We found three fixed ropes on the Gossips when we climbed this route. Lame!

Two of these ropes were fixed all the way to two of the summits.
Even More Lame!

We believe they were left by slackliners.

We removed the rope that was fixed to the top of the South Gossip when we left. If you want your rope back, contact me.

More pictures and a TR at piquaclimber.net/past/south… May 24, 2007