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Routes in East Face

Don's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fellowship, The 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4 X
Humungous Woosey T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Luca and the Fishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ X
Moonscapes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Southeast Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Aid, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade VI
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,233 total, 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 22, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Caution: Human and Drug Trafficking Details

Description

  • note, as an important part of the adventure the pitches will be described briefly. The first 4 pitches have seen a "no beta" second, thus parties should be comfortable on Babo aid before attempting.

pitches 1-3 lead through chopped arch roof and to the left corner of large roof section ("Dreams" skirts to right of this feature). pitches 4-5 lead to a pendulum into the Fellowship's crux free pitch (the 5.9R section of Luca). FA party refused to drill on Steiger's "tour de force" and instead the leader ended they pitch by tying off to a bush at his feet while the second jumared the leaders waist loop. The following pitch (5.8X) leads into a 5.10 corner tree pitch below the "bowl" on the Spring route and joins for the balance of the wall.

hole count p1 = 6, p2 = 4, p3 = 2, p4 = 2, p5 = 0, p6 = 0 total = 14

Location

right of the bivy area (which is right of spring proper) is a "chopped out arch". Climbing begins on left side and climbs through right side of roof. An intermediate belay was drilled on the 2nd partial ascent.

Protection

standard desert rack, heads and circles, all hooks, pins to 2" including horizontal Rurps. Ball nuts helpful.

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