Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marabel Loverage, Kyle Copeland, April, 1992
Page Views: 2,487 total · 17/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 22, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

(editor's note - this route is technically in Arches National Park.  It is subject to bird closures in the spring and summer.  White chalk is also prohibited. As with every other route on earth, smacking white chalk handprints all over the wall is not cool, so knock it off...)

This route is on the north side of the River and quite visible from the main bridge leaving Moab. The right-facing dihedral is eye-candy for all climbers, and the anchor is visible without gettin out of your car. How can you resist? Pitch one;...Approach from the left;..mostly scrambling, bu there is an exposed step across and easy 5th class climbing to a bolted belay at the base of the dihedral. Pitch 2; Fingers and Hands (5.9) lead to a bolted belay and rap station. This climb is cool and fun and worthy; a fun adventure if you got an extra hour or two.

Location

You can see it from the main bridge over the Colorado River as you leave Moab going North. It's on the N. Side of the Highway.

Protection

Maybe a double rack of cams.

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
  5.9
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
  5.9
The other climbs on this north side of the Highway (Other than Barney Rubble, which is down the road a piece), are The Coup (5.10-), Canyonlands by Night (5.10), Fun Ramp (III 5.9 A2), a Lenard Coyne free route? (Near the Fun Ramp)....and probably more?.....I would like more info on these climbs by those in the know.....I've only done the El Secondo, and I would like to do more here....(Close to town, short approach....stuff us lazy bastards like...) May 23, 2007
Hey Todd, Leonard here, hope your doing well. There are 2 climbs myself and various partners have put up over there:

Trail of The Navajo - about 200 meters L of fun ramp. Easily seen from the campground a mile or so up the river. This is the large L facing corner directly across from the campground. Starts in the L facing corner on the ground, then face climbs up and L to the huge L facing corner system. Need everything from a black alien to several large pieces. 8 pitches 11D (could probably be reduced to 10 or 11- A0). Can either rap the route (real easy to get ropes stuck), or walk off an endless sea of slabs with difficult route finding (do not do this in the dark/dusk). Killer climb, comprable to Astroman (in a desert sort of way). Topo at Pagan.

The Hyaena - about 200 meters right of the fun ramp. Cool nine pitch free climb up a highly improbable wall. Up the slab (bolts) to a vague R facing corner (more bolts, 13- or A1), face traverse left to another R facing corner, left yet again to another right facing corner (the side of the big hanging buttress). 9 pitches 13- (could be reduced to 5.10 A0) I think there is a topo at Pagan's.

(Bjornstad has topos of both (if he can find them))

ALSO

Left of Hyaena Dave Mealey et al put up a cool 4 pitch aid limb w. some nice splitters up high. Lots of bat holes (I think). Looks to be A4 ish.

Approach all of these either via hiking from near the bridge or via boat (sort of fun, take PFD's).

Best, LC Aug 4, 2007
ljh
ljh  
El Segundo, I believe. (I know, details, details Â… )
AKA : Bobo Did It May 2, 2011
ljh
ljh  
Re. the other Fun Ramp area routes—there is a historic Peregrine Falcon nest site there. Please stay off those routes 3/1-9/1. I'm not sure if the NPS has ever issued an official seasonal closure, but this pair/site is one of the most frequently monitored pairs in the area and I have to hear about it from the bio-peeps allll the time when they see climbers on routes there durng the breeding season. May 2, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9+
Fun route close to town... and a little "mini adventure" as well. Climbs like a tower route.... even though it isn't a tower :)

Park right below the route in a pullout. Walk up the bike path towards Arches until you can (easily) gain the bench and then follow the bench up until it ends at the start of the first pitch traverse. You actually start the hike on the short trail to the petrogylphs sign.

The first pitch steps down a short chimney before traversing right. I was easily able to place pro all across the traverse to protect my second. The climbing is easy... but it is loose. Belay is a bolt and drilled pin.

Second pitch is 100' of fun jamming through a variety of sizes. Primarily #0.75, #1, and #2 camalots. You do go through a bit of junky rock.

Two raps down with a single 70m. Last rap JUST makes it with a 70m.

Gear: Conservative rack.... I was happy to have some small cams (blue and yellow mastercam). 1 or 2 #0.4 camalots, 1 or 2 #0.5 camalots, and 3-4 each of #0.75, #1, and #2 camalots. One #3 camalot was nice as well. Oct 22, 2014
Josh C
Somewhere out West
  5.9
Josh C   Somewhere out West
  5.9
Would anyone object if I replaced the anchor/rappel webbing on this climb with climbing chain or mussey hooks? To be certain, I will NOT add any new bolts or replace the old bolts. Nov 1, 2014
jason malczyk
General Delivery
  5.9
jason malczyk   General Delivery
  5.9
upgrade away just make them as low profile and camouflaged as possible please. the route is in arches and we do not need to give them another reason to not like climbers Nov 2, 2014
Josh C
Somewhere out West
  5.9
Josh C   Somewhere out West
  5.9
Upgraded the anchor slings to chains and rappel rings for pitch 1 and mussey hooks for pitch 2. Painted them a nice brown color to match the sandstone. Nov 29, 2014
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
Thanks for doing that Josh! Nov 30, 2014
Big loose block on the 1st traverse pitch by the step over. Use serious caution here. Apr 10, 2018
Nate Sydnor   Moab
Since the last comment may hint at a recent ascent, please be aware that this route is within Arches NP, and so is subject to their management. This route is closed at the moment (since March 1st) for raptor nesting, and remember that white chalk is not permitted within the park.

nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… Apr 10, 2018
Mark Dunn
Moab, UT
  5.9
Mark Dunn   Moab, UT
  5.9
Amazing climb. First pitch is super chill, we set an anchor at the belay and no gear after that (though there are a few places you could). Second pitch is the money and super fun. We brought doubles of .3-.5, quads of .75-2, and a single 3. I like to sew things up, so you could probably get by with less. Anchors are all still in great shape. Rapping requires a 70 and its a rope stretcher, so make sure to tie your knots.

Do this climb Nov 18, 2018