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Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - West Face

Anti-Gravity Boots T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Baby Huey Smokes an Anti-Pipeload T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Bamboozled Again T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Billy Barty Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gomma Cocida T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nose in a Day, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Potato Masher T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Salathe Free T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
That's What She Said T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Dopes on Punk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 168 total · 1/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on May 22, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climbs the obvious big crack via a big hole in the middle of the right face.

Protection

A few of the big stuff

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
I thought the moves off the ground were kinda tough or I was blowing it. After this it is standard Josh fare with a few pulls, a couple of loose flakes, one move of OW and funky but easy top out.

Pro is small to med at the start, sorta wide (4" plus) in the middle and then med at the end. Belay on top or set up a rap so you can do the Salathe Free without the massive walk around to get back to the base. Jan 7, 2014
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Standing on a nubbin in my bad shoes in the blazing sun not liking the down climb or the landing convinced me to continue up. Glad/fortunate I didn't crater! Jan 7, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I led this two star classic today and found it quite enjoyable. Good feet and gear to start leading to the wide crack with surrounding walls having better holds than the crack itself. Somewhat sneaky placements in that it has a layer of .5-.75" flake inside making for the most hollow of sounds when placing cams. Lots of moving around to get the best purchase. Ultimately went with the motto of Cam big and deep.

Upper section quite delicious with supplemental crack to the left which is most excellent for balance or whatever. Lots of gear choices up top anchor from hands and up - bring a long runner if you want to set up a TR or grains will kill your rope.

My star rating is 2 stars finding it altogether enjoyable although I"ll probably never go there again. Jan 7, 2014
brian burke
santa monica, ca
 
brian burke   santa monica, ca
 
can be led safely with medium cams to #3, no big gear needed in my opinion.

a couple of burly offwidth moves at the crux bulge surrounded by easier featured crack climbing. pretty fun. Jan 2, 2015

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