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Salathe Free

5.5, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.4 from 16 votes
FA: Todd Swain
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Left Hand of Da… > Left Hand of Darkness…

Description

This the right leaning wide crack near the "end" of the formation. Fun climb and great for the beginning leader. I couldn't find a 5.7 move on it, unless possibly the unprotected face left of the top of the crack, to gain a better belay spot. My difficulty rating is generous; there may be one 5.6 move on the entire crack. Still, worth doing and well-protected from the wind!

The Gear

Standard Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I've always wanted to do the Salathe.  ha ha<br>
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photo by Jason Partin
[Hide Photo] I've always wanted to do the Salathe. ha ha photo by Jason Partin
Everyone is freeing the Salathe nowdays
[Hide Photo] Everyone is freeing the Salathe nowdays
Salathe Free, 5.7
[Hide Photo] Salathe Free, 5.7

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] funclimb, and pro is bomber, however, there is not a 5.7 or 5.6 move on the climb. I rate it 5.5 Feb 17, 2008
Russ Walling
Redacted Sucks!!
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Easy stuff all the way. At the top you can move left into a short finger and hand crack that will add two letter grades to the route... this is the 5.6 finish. Without this, it might be 5.5b. I gotta go with like a half a star. Not a shitbomb, but not something I would ever want to see, do, or hear about again.

Descend down the back toward the road and climbers right. Skirt the formation and cut back toward your gear through a chimney system just up off the desert floor. Yeah, it kinda sucks. Jan 7, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
[Hide Comment] It's true, Russ and I were there together but feel differently about the days ticks. I thought the route was fun enough, basically 5.4 through the bulk of it (takes gear but not really necessary) until you get to the split.... go right up a slot which is probably described by others or take the left featured finger crack straight up over the "bulge" for 2.5' . The direct finish was fun, easy to pro and probably 5.7. Plenty of gear on top for the anchors from .75 - 3" plus nuts if you've got 'em.

Best part of the route...is likely taking the slot (that we didn't finish on) as your down climb. That our skirt around as Russ noted.

I've done plenty of bombs in JTree...this is short but not one of them. Enjoy. Jan 7, 2014