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Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - West Face

Anti-Gravity Boots T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Baby Huey Smokes an Anti-Pipeload T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Bamboozled Again T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Billy Barty Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gomma Cocida T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nose in a Day, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Potato Masher T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Salathe Free T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
That's What She Said T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Dopes on Punk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Swain
Page Views: 699 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on May 22, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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13 Opinions

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Description

This the right leaning wide crack near the "end" of the formation. Fun climb and great for the beginning leader. I couldn't find a 5.7 move on it, unless possibly the unprotected face left of the top of the crack, to gain a better belay spot. My difficulty rating is generous; there may be one 5.6 move on the entire crack. Still, worth doing and well-protected from the wind!

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Standard Rack

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susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
It's true, Russ and I were there together but feel differently about the days ticks. I thought the route was fun enough, basically 5.4 through the bulk of it (takes gear but not really necessary) until you get to the split.... go right up a slot which is probably described by others or take the left featured finger crack straight up over the "bulge" for 2.5' . The direct finish was fun, easy to pro and probably 5.7. Plenty of gear on top for the anchors from .75 - 3" plus nuts if you've got 'em.

Best part of the route...is likely taking the slot (that we didn't finish on) as your down climb. That our skirt around as Russ noted.

I've done plenty of bombs in JTree...this is short but not one of them. Enjoy. Jan 7, 2014
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.5
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.5
Easy stuff all the way. At the top you can move left into a short finger and hand crack that will add two letter grades to the route... this is the 5.6 finish. Without this, it might be 5.5b. I gotta go with like a half a star. Not a shitbomb, but not something I would ever want to see, do, or hear about again.

Descend down the back toward the road and climbers right. Skirt the formation and cut back toward your gear through a chimney system just up off the desert floor. Yeah, it kinda sucks. Jan 7, 2014
Steve Powell  
5.5
funclimb, and pro is bomber, however, there is not a 5.7 or 5.6 move on the climb. I rate it 5.5 Feb 17, 2008