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Routes in Central Reservation Climbs

Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4
Dead Horse Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
Lucky Strike Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Pope (Supreme Being) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ PG13
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Round Rock (S E Side) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smith Spire West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whale, NE Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Window Rock III (Crag) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Brian Povolny, Henry Thompson, Alan Beatie, Jody Brown, Steve Prakken, David Ek, Jeff Hamlen, Dave Evans, Jim Angione, Lorie Graf, Doug S
Page Views: 731 total, 6/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 19, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a pair of crags with a number of crack climbs. You can drive right up to these crags, and most of the climbs are strenous, wide, sandy, or all of the above. The climbs are all 5.9 or 5.10;...They are loosely listed in Eric's desert Rock Guide. They have names like Dream of Dead Horses (5.10c), Dark Horse (5.9), Dark Horse Revenge (5.9), Zen and the Art of Dead Horse Maintenance (5.9), Mr. Ed is Dead (5.10b), Winnie The Pooh (5.9), They Shoot Horse, Don't They? (5.8), Cosmic Carcas (5.9), Troll Meets Mr. Ed (5.10a), Where Dead Horses Dare (5.9+), and other unnammed routes too. A cool place to scar up your hands on some steep, short, sandy, slippery, strenous cracks in a quiet beautiful setting with no approach. The name of the crags comes from the obvious; a dead horse, and a dead cow.

Location

Up on the high Plateau behind the hospital in Chinle, Arizona

Protection

Double or triple rack of friends; mostly the hand size and larger.
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
I have spent many a day bloodying my hands, legs, and knees at these crags. The formations just pops up out of the sandy landscape, and are just laced with short, steep, strenous, gritty, sandy cracks. None of the climbs are very good, very fun, very long, ...they all sort of suck;...BUT;...there is something very cool about the climbs here too. They are all sort of challenging is a grunting kind of way, and the approach is short and they are all lined up in a row, one after another. It's not the place where you go do a bunch of climbs;...go do a few of them, get all scrapped up, and then go back to Chinle for a romantic dinner and a movie. You can't miss the crags;....it's of the first crag areas you come to once you get up on the plateau...... and it's on the right. We put in bolted anchors here and there, but some of them got shot up;..NOT by Navajos, but by a gun-crazy white Park Sevice maintence employee who worked in the early 80's in Canyon De Chelly Nat. Monument who had a chip on his shoulder, a bit too much to drink one evening....(so I hear..).....Might want to bring a bolt kit, but I'm sure others have climbed here, and the anchors have been fixed up. There are probably a few of the cracks here that have not been climbed yet;....some looked quite challenging. There are alot of cracks here;...and the crags aint' all that big. Climb here and you will get a feeling that the wild West is alive and well.....and still wild. May 20, 2007