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Routes in Monument Valley

El Cap Original Route/ West Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Shangri-La T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0 PG13
Throne (King on a Throne), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Totem Pole T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Totem Pole "Never Never Land" route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 440 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey, Marlene Daluge, Joe Brown, Donald Liska, 1967
Page Views: 3,139 total, 24/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 19, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed. Details

Description

This is a fantastic climb on a large formation with an awesome summit. Pitch one; Climb up a large dihadral/corner system, past two bolts, past 5.9 Owth section to a belay from 2 FP on the left. There are a few loose blocks on this pitch as well, so be careful. Pitch 2; climb up the dihedral more (past 2 bolts) into a chimney (squeeze) and a belay ledge just past the notch on the left. (Triple bolt belay/rap station). Pitch three; Climb up past one bolt, to a thin aid crack which widens to hands, then leads to a belay with 3 bolts. The 4th pitch ascends a bolt ladder with 17 bolts in a row. The bolts traverse up and right around the backside of the formation.

Location

This formation is East of the main Tribal Loop and is approached from the main highway via dirt roads that lead towards the formation.

Protection

Double or triple rack of cams, a few pins, slings. Extension for the top anchor. I got my ropes stuck on the last pitch;...make sure the rope is extended and the rope will freely pull.

Photos

cieneguita  
 
Only a single mid pitch bolt on first pitch adjacent to very loose block. The anchor at top of first pitch is two bomb proof hexes and one ring angle in poor rock. Rappel route is sunlight corner showing full tower in gordon's photo, there is one intermediate station which is easily bypassed with two ropes. The first pitch starts 30' right of this rap line. Apr 25, 2016
Stu Ritchie
Denver
Stu Ritchie   Denver
This is indeed a very cool route. Of note is a historic bit of graffiti at the first belay. One of the 1st ascensionists, Marlene Dalluge inscribed her name in very beautiful letters. Reminded me of the LK pecked into the old last belay of Outer Space on the Bastille in Eldorado Canyon. Dec 16, 2009
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
I attempted this climb with Dorothy Logan in Feb., 1983. We did 2 pitches and she didn't want to continue. I returned a few weeks later with my younger brother (Who climbs a few times a year with me..), and we made it to the summit on a cold day with some snowflakes in the air. We got the ropes stuck on the summit rappel, and ended up chopping our rope, and making many very short raps to the ground, leaving hundreds of $ of gear. The rappels were made after the sun went down as well. (Epic?) I returned a third time in March 1983 with Brian Povolny and Jeff Hamblen, and we went again to the summit, and I retrieved what was left of my rope, and all the gear I had left behind. I am familiar with this climb, and it holds a special place in my heart and soul. It is a cool climb with a fantastic summit. May 20, 2007